Search results for query: *

Just some LED play for the kitchen counter. The switch is mounted on the end of the cabinets, and the transformers are mounted inside and wired into the backs of those sockets. When I did the bead board backing on all our counters I had to add the lighting or it didn’t feel finished. The LED...

Tractor Supply carries that also, along with the solder on lugs. The smaller black cable goes to the radiator support.

I drilled the OE sender and used a brass lamp nipple and a nut on each side, then soldered a small section of copper tube to the brass piece for the line to slide onto. A couple of nylon washers from Ace Hardware and it worked great. Been that way for 5-6 years.

Yea, I agree. I’m sure I got lucky on my motor. The bottom end was really clean, but you should have seen the heads. Not only were they cracked between the valves, but the seats on the exhaust valves were not even round any longer. I turned a couple of them 180 degrees and there was obvious...

Like this shows. Note on the spring wrap diagram how the diff is twisted. Clamping leafs so they don’t separate so much can help.

Because with leafs and no traction devices the diff is going to twist up quite a bit.

Not sure I’d say that as a general rule. My Magnum had 96k on when I inspected it, and everything still looked like near new inside. I probably have well over 125k on my Magnum. With 5-20 oil it’s 60lbs at startup, 55lbs at full temp (190) running down the road at 55 and 35lbs at hot idle...

I picked up a 96k long block locally for my Dart. Still obvious cross hatching in the bores, and the crank and rod bearings looked near new. The heads were garbage with cracks and horrific valve seats, which I expected. I put a set of LA drilled New Zealand EQ heads on with Hughes springs...

The cluster will come out without dropping the column. You (might) be able to get it out far enough to disconnect the cable, but I doubt it. You might be able to disconnect at the trans first and give more slack, but if I remember you are going to need to tilt the cluster toward you to...

I picked up a 74 up 8.25 out of a Dart and put the Dakota sure grip with 3.55 gears in it. It’s a direct bolt in with different OD bearings for the carrier. Then the Jeep Grand Cherokee disc brakes were a bolt on. I did replace the wheel studs with longer ones because the discs took up about...

Exactly. Which tells me those are barely any different than the factory cam.

Old man memory. Using Dad’s Jeep to tow a Fiat 850 with no motor or brakes to the top of a fire break road and jumping the berms on the way down. We often ended up upside down.

That so sucks, but at least you have another block.

Not always, but 1-2 cylinders on occasion.

Without the AC on about 900. With it on it drops to 750 or so.

Tried that and it didn’t seem to make any difference.

I just said up there ^ I didn’t want to do that.

I have to agree with lawnmower man. :D Around here they would tell you to dig down at least 18 inches deep and wide and fill with concrete for the footers, as well as diagonal brace between the studs.

Ignition voltage doesn’t normally pass through that coil. It should only be the 1 volt or so generated by the magnetic function as the reluctor tip passes. I think you hit it on the head.

Now that my car has AC I have to have the idle rpm a little higher. Problem is when I shut the engine off it tends to “run on” for a few cylinder fires, which I really don’t like because it’s hard on cam gears and such. (Especially when the engine kicks backwards) I realize there is idle...

Wow, I have seen coils go out, but never seen one come out. Just recently had to get a new one for one of our cars and it was 30 bucks (and from China of course)

Just in case. Your switch on the dash has to be grounded for them to work.

These are just some of the used parts I used building my Dart. 5.9 short block Intake Fabbed al valve covers Holley 770 Headers Clutch fan 42RH trans Converter Flex plate Rear sure grip 3.55 Rear disc brakes Alternator (from the 318) Water pump (same) Timing cover (same) V regulator (same) W...

Today’s car guys have tons of resources that we didn’t have back then. AND the parts and pieces we did get were of good quality. Nowadays we can get about anything online, but a lot of it is just expensive garbage. Kinda miss the old days where we scrounged around for something that would work...

I wanted to mention the grease able pins, but had to go back and check if they were already mentioned. Funny. :D

If it grinds on all teeth then all teeth have a witness mark. Again, show em. Corners rounded on the block side edge is a crapload different than all tops of the teeth having marks for example. “My starter grinds” is a very general statement.

Aluminum piece is not mandatory. Where are the teeth on the converter rashed? That can tell us a lot. Pictures of the teeth close, and maybe a couple of different angles and in focus.

Here’s the thrown together video from my cruise up the mountain if you guys are interested.

Absolutely agree with all your points septin for one. Tuning is fun too. :D Tell ya what, I just got back from that drive and the car ran, drove and handled really well on that road. I might know one or maybe two people that wouldn’t have been scared to ride with me. I did take my phone and did...