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I am the guy that doesn't toss a bone that still has meat on it. It isn't as if I am broke, I just don't throw away stuff that still has life to it. To be specific, the red arrows are pointing at the knuckle, the yellow arrow points to the spindle on the knuckle. Again, these are really...

I don’t like those gouges but if the bearing mounting surfaces are fine, I don’t think the area in between matters. Nothing makes contact with the area in between. I pack my knuckles and rotors with grease in there. The knuckle and spindles are really strong. I have an A body set on my Charger...

Absolutely...... I don't look for trouble but I do think about the day that I'd be the guy standing up to fight for or protect those that I love and respect. There is no glory or respect for men that run and hide when their loved ones are in danger. BUT if my sister were a cackling *****...

You use big words to object to the use of a correct term.

What happened, man? I was at the meeting but didn't see you anywhere.

I’m curious what is wrong with what you have. Technically, you are referring to “knuckles” not spindles. Regardless, it takes a lot of impact to damage them. Pictures would help if you are set on replacing them.

The actual Poly-lube that I use is some white colored really thick goo that has a consistency much thicker than any axle grease.

I'm guessing that you lubed the poly bushings where they pass through the K member? You mention "noise" but not what type of noise. Squeak? Creak? Snap? Pop? The sound you get by rubbing dry fingers on a rubber balloon is usually related to lubrication. A creak is often metal related where the...

The bushings have that inner sleeve that rides on the strut rod. I tightened the washer and nut until it bottomed. The caster numbers that I got could not have been reached if these urethane bushings were thicker than the rubber ones.

Holeee cow, man....what a terrible thing to happen. This must be devastating for you. PLEASE reach out to family. Times like these can make you feel aimless, hopeless and at great risk. I'm sorry to hear of anyone's mate passing on. When the love of your life is gone, everything gets disrupted...

No, I'm not 100% wrong, not even 1%. You could have simply written that you didn't agree. I've never consulted a service manual for torsion bar adjustment. Anyone with a curious nature can figure it out. The factory method is one that very few enthusiasts use. Looking at your cars, it sure seems...

That is a nice looking car. Absolutely. These cars have a camber and caster curve that changes a lot in a short amount of travel. See the chart here: That is with a 1973-76 A body disc brake knuckle but it isn't radically different from other knuckles used. The list shows "Dive" as...

I thought that the opening question was a guy messing with everyone else. It is something that does happen from time to time. The OP is listed as being in Sacramento. THIS Tuesday is the monthly meeting of the Capital City Mopars at the California Auto museum on Front Street in downtown...

Moparts used to be the best. The owner and moderators are much like politicians in a once great state. They abused their members because they acted as if they could get away with it. The site lost members when they got tired of the ads and the bully moderators but then they still claim to be...

I agree. I'd rather install a rear glass than a windshield. It is really hard to break a rear glass compared to the front.

The "firewall" or core support?

For A body fenders that can usually be found in every state, shipping them across country seems unusual. If someone needed them right away and didn't have the time to look at local sources, then sure...I can see that. I've shipped stuff through Greyhound when the distance is far. I've shipped 71...

The 72 is a one year only fender only because of the mounting tabs for the steel panel that attaches above the headlight buckets. If they are cut off, the fenders work for 73-76 cars too. I've sold them for $100 before but that was years ago. Cheers

Hey man, you missed my point entirely. The angle of that picture makes it look like the road is on some crazy 80 degree incline. I was commenting on the crappy picture while also commenting on the sad loss of life.

Hey, I wasn't criticizing your use of English, you write fine from what I can tell. Most people refer to the unit as a "spindle" but it isn't the correct term. It's just like calling a limited slip differential a Posi when the correct term for Mopars is Sure Grip. Are you sure? I'm not. I've...

Moog used to be the best. Nowadays, they are sometimes good, sometimes crap. Take a look at this lower control arm bushing: Yeah...that bushing is off center. GREAT quality there, guys.

First, there are proper terms to use. The red arrows point to the steering knuckle. The yellow arrow points to the actual spindle. If you have steering knuckles like these, you need the 1973-76 A body disc brake lower ball joints. The B and E bodies use the same ones.

With the angle of that picture, I'm surprised that anyone could get to that speed with as steep as it seems. Who thinks that taking a picture from that angle looks good? Sorry for the lives lost.

Success! It drives straight, feels solid, is quiet and corners well. There are numerous things to do to this car but the front end and brakes are sorted out.

Here we go. 71 1/8”. The front number was less, 70 15/16”. That makes the toe 3/16” IN. How the heck did it land here before I made adjustments??? I had the tie rod ends out, I rotated the sleeves back and forth but in a huge stroke of blind luck, they ended exactly where I would have set...

The following will seem like I am lying but this is the absolute truth. Somehow, after it all has been apart, adjusted and everything, the toe numbers came in almost perfect with no adjustment needed. Yeah. Sometimes I am just really lucky. I first started the car and spun the wheel full...

The left side front cam bolt was all the way OUT so the only way to reduce camber and caster was to adjust the rear bolt out a bit. Here is where I ended up. That is the left side. Here is the right: That is close enough for me. Now I’ll set the toe. Have you seen these things before?

I used these washers…. My best guess is that these are 3/32”. You can see them peeking out from between the knuckle and lower ball joint. Here is what difference they made. These alone made a 1/2 degree of negative camber to arrive at 3/4 degree, not a bad number. The caster...

Thanks, man. I’m just a dude that fumbles around until I get it right. The right side: with the front alignment cam bolt OUT and the rear cam bolt IN, I have about 5 7/8 degrees of positive caster. That is great! The camber number shows about 1/2 degree negative. Looking at the specs listed...

The plate gets threaded on until it bottoms out. Then the gauge gets stuck on... You have to "level it" using the bubble on the outer edge. Next, you look at the outer bubbles to see where the camber is. Holy crap...I'm at 2 degrees of NEGATIVE camber?? My goal is for 1 degree...