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I still want to see ACTUAL temperature on a mech gauge, not the crappy factory dash gauge.

I would challenge you to put a real temp guage on it and read the actual temperature. I wouldn't be going by the factory dash gauge. Only n other thing not mentioned, is make sure your water pump pulley IS smaller than your crank pulley. I think you're chasing your tail, personally

We did it on a piece of paper held in the photo. Sure someone could still Photoshop, but it would help detour from pic stealing and reposting on here and FB

On another Mopar forum I was apart of, you were required to put your screen name and the date on all 4 sale item pictures. We should really consider that, otherwise you get this non sense.

I think you're overthinking it. Your current temps are fine. I would add a shroud at most and leave off the electric fan.

Also wondering

The roller bearing setup was factory for the later model stick shifted mopar vehicles. It's a common upgrade. I wouldn't sweat it. Pull your old one out, install roller and roll on.

It should fit, fine, however the wiring will most likely be different.

Very cool! Maybe the video, but you got to get some better headlights! That second video made me nervous. Lll

Don't try and reinvent. Fitech needs a two wire magnetic pickup dist that's locked out AND a adjustable rotor. I had Fitech on my 70 Dart with timing control, MSD pro billet locked out with MSD adjustable rotor and MSD EFI 6 box. It worked as it should. Knowing what I know now, I would go with a...

Check with Brewers or Passon. Brewers would be my first choice, due to ease of communication. but I got one from Passon about 2 years ago. It was a refurb unit, no issues.

Is rebuilding out of the question? These are very simple. The rebuild kits are also reasonable..

How could it be a blown fuse? If the fuse blows, there would be no power at all. His is losing connection and then regaining it. Just asking to understand. I would pull the starter and bench test it's operation (see if you can duplicate). Maybe a faulty ignition switch?

Not to de rail the install, but I thought with drive line angles, you wanted equal but opposite angles? Which it looks like you are darn close to? 3.5 down on trans 3 up on pinion

Brubaker 1-3/8"-6 HSS 4 Flute Hand Tap | eBay This is the style I bought. Cheap and easy.

Just a regular tap. I got mine on eBay for like $15. That was quite a few years ago, though.

Unfortunately, those caps are notorious for leaking. Dorman makes a set of caps, that fit tighter and won't leak. Dorman 42044...

I tightened up my pst box just a hair and it made a world of difference. I also had slop and everything was new.

You have new upper control arms w/new ball joints, right? If that's the case, whip the old castle nut off the old ball joint and use a separator (post #7) and you're home free. Reinstall in reverse order.

Man. That stinks.

Dang look how cupped that lifter is! Stupid question, but did you use high zinc oil?

Try Hunter. Current California & Oregon Service Areas | Hunter Communications Not sure if they're in your area. $60/mo guranteed

Try jumping the starter relay.

I used Chrysler PS2 silver on my grille. I think it turned out awesome.

What about @BergmanAutoCraft wheels on the dart on his home page? I've always like the look of those. Not sure what his his setup is tho.

Bob - did you measure where your motor is sitting using TTi specs posted earlier? 70 Dart, 4 speed, manual steering with 1.03 bars. Cleared everything perfectly. At first I didn't have the motor in the right spot and it was hitting one of the TB. So measure first before anything.

Yes, when operating correctly, oil should come out of those holes.

I've done this alone by zip thing the trigger on the drill. Then turning the crank slowly. Should see oil, relatively quickly.

I believe so as long as the spline count is the same.

42RH is a A500