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RPM isn’t nearly as important as overall valve length and head diameter. There is no arbitrary RPM where you switch from stainless to titanium valves. Or even when you switch to smaller stems. There is never a negative going to a lighter valve.

They made aluminum cases and tail shaft housings for drag racing. It doesn’t have to be an OD transmission.

Since MSD bought Mallory they have been eliminating part numbers. The part number you need is a Mallory 29509. MSD does not have them, nor are they going to make them. They are available on eBay and such. I suggest you get one now or you won’t get one. Those clip style caps with the female...

Got it. So what is the benefit of a big clutch?

Google EFI university and look for some of his videos on spintron development. Valve weight is a big deal, even at 6000 rpm. If you can spend a few hundred bucks and save valve weight it’s cheap money spent. Also, if you have your poop in one group you can use Ti retainers and save there too...

You are better off to get the cap that converts those distributors to an HEI style on the cap and in that kit it converts the cap to screw down clamps. I’ll see if I can find the part number for it and post it here.

Just for your information, checking the lift and duration means nothing when degreeing the cam. At this point, it is evident you have no idea where the cam is timed. Dot to dot means nothing. I’ll ask it again because it’s been asked before but I’ve never seen your answer. When you had the...

What is a Big clutch? Never heard of that brand before. I’d never use a cast crank. Spend a few extra dollars and get a forged crank.

Well worth the money. But you need to use carbide pilots. Without them you’ll have even more issues with runout on that machine. If you use carbide pilots and don’t crowd the tooling you can get some very nice seats. You just can’t get ham fisted with it.

Lighter valves are always a benefit. Always. I’d use 5/16 stem valves. You can’t get the valves light enough, regardless of RPM or cam type.

The OP said Hooker.

I said no such thing. I said amps does the work. It takes voltage to fire the gap. Why do you think a mag runs at an .018 or .020 gap? You need to slow down and think before you post.

If your damper is off 1 degree and your timing light is off 1 degree you have 36 total. Nothing out of the ordinary. There are videos on the web showing two identical timing lights being different by 3 degrees. Give the engine what it says it wants and don’t live and die by a number. You are fine.

I don’t need to ask him anything. I already know the answer. Amps wins. Every time. And the nonsense you posted about fuel engines is also wrong.

I can tell from this antic post nothing I can say will change your mind. So I won’t bother. Amps is what does the work. Simple as that. You can argue all you want. In fact, the amp measurement has been so beguiled by MSD even that is hard to deal with. A 20 amp MSD magneto produces the same...

I didn’t read all of this but when you said amps don’t matter you got that wrong. Amps is what gets the job done. Since every non magneto ignition I’ve seen is less than one amp I have to think that’s why they don’t mention it. A small magneto is 3 amps so that’s 300% higher than any other...

Put about 300 pounds in the trunk and look at it. When you see that it means the spring rate is too high. If you put 300 pounds (maybe 350 but you’ll see it lowering the back of the car) and it fixes it, you can start removing leaves from the springs until the ride height is correct and the...

The biggest problem for Speedmaster or anyone else is getting the castings. I’d be pretty surprised if they do a Black Friday sale this year. I think they got hammered pretty hard last year and this year hasn’t gotten any better. You can’t sell something you don’t have.

Somewhere in this thread the OP a said it’s sitting at ride height in those pictures. I’ll have to go back and see if I can find that post. Edit post 31 says it’s at ride height. And in the picture in the first post it’s sitting on the ground.

Yes, and his are pointing forward at ride height. That means when the axle moves down (or the body moves up depending on your perspective) it will be in a bind because it’s already forward.

The shackle MUST be going towards the back of the car. Yours is going the wrong way. It’s in the Chrysler book for anyone who thinks your set up is correct. It’s not.

Oldkimmer is correct. If you have a spring that will take .600 lift and you are at .508 lift you are too far away from coil bind. You need to be closer to coil bind than you are. If you do a search for spring surge or even search for high speed video valve spring or something like that you will...

Was that one sleeve with the sleeve? That seems high but it has been awhile since I had one done.

I’m not sure what it costs to install a sleeve lately. I haven’t had to had one done in about 10 years.

I’ll see if I can get a picture of a Pontiac manifold that I know is getting a MF 5006. I don’t know if he’s done with it yet. It is interesting in that the carb pan on that manifold has the same shape as the strip dominator.

I didn’t. I just pointed out I don’t really care for 4 hole to open tapered spacers. In my at the track testing the antireversion plates almost always went quicker and I never had one slow down. But the manifold has to be opened up to make sure it doesn’t cover any of the groove around the...

Sleeve the bad holes and use it. The sleeves will be better than the factory bores.

The new Iron Maiden record is going to be released September 3rd. I already preordered my copy. It will be awesome.

I didn’t suggest a spacer. I suggested an antireversion plate. They are not the same.

Ok, I’ll say it this way. With a bolt the threads in the block get a twisting force as well as a pull. With a stud, the threads in the block get a straight pull on them. So it is different. You can either put the screw load up in the nut or down in the block. It even changed bore distortion. So...