Search results for query: *

The tension and light side hammer smack works like a charm.

Just my 2 cents... If you stick with stock parts you will be much happier. Easier to assemble and maintain. The power increase between 2bbl and 4bbl and dual exhaust will be minimal. The factory 2bbl was 180 HP, the 4 BBL was 235 but that was due to the cam and 10.5 compression. The heads...

Not sure if this is accurate but I recall it. In 67 the paint codes were like DD1, the color is D1 and the same for the upper and lower part of the car. I think at some year they changed the pattern to be like D11, D1 for the upper and D1 for the lower

Go buy a new 60s Ford pickup gas cap . Drill out the center allowing the rubber seal to come free. It will fit over your stock cap and tuck down under the stock center. I did this on my 67 and it has sealed very smell for 7 years Like this one NEW gas fuel cap 1949-59 Ford car, 1951-1971...

Show photos of your vent tube I have not had that issue with my 67 dart. Even when I let it fill till it stops and dribbles.

I have this one. Came off a 68 or 69 318 with cast iron water pump. The engine was not original to the 67 dart but the car had AC and Power Steering. The idler was present on the engine It most likely has sat in TX or CO (high desert) since 1976 The pulleys measure: I took tape and ran it...

There are 2 different trans levers, one for 4 BBL and one for 2 BBL. The length is different as the ratio on the z bar or the carb is different.

If you look at 69 up rear backing plates, they have 2 tabs on either side of the wheel cylinder. My understanding is they are there to keep the pistons from popping out until the shoes and springs are installed.

Is it going on a factory 4 BBL or 2 BBL or aftermarket carb? @Oldmanmopar has had parts in the past

I think you have a workable solution. The all aluminum mc that looks like a cast iron unit is 1-1/32" 1962-74 Mopar E body ALUMINUM Master Cylinder, 1-1/32 bore, 3.2 lbs, 4

I have heard that some newer wheel cylinders have built in residual valves or something that makes the valve unneeded. If it was me I would look for a proper replacement, or see if you can get a valve and seat and install in the mc. ALSO .. my research shows that the 1" mc for the application...

Not always. I have a spare that over a year or 2 loose most of its air, but put it in soap and you don't see anything. I have other tires that have held air for 5+ years

What he ^ said. If you want to Tim Taylor it... You could cut a piece of pipe with the same ID as the hole. Drill out the outer frame rail to the pipe OD. Cut the pipe so it is flush with the outer frame rail when inserted in the hole. Then bolt it all together. When you go to weld it in...

The inner tube might have been installed because the wheel will not seal well to the tire. You will know in a year.

I know it's blasphemy.... Ford 9" Parts are cheaper and readily available.

Did that pulling the 170 straight 6 and installing a 289 v8 in a 63 Econoline. The last time pulling the 289 I raised the front of the van and dropped the engine and trans out the bottom.

I bolted an entire frame for a pickup truck together and pulled it 30 miles to a friend's house to be welded. You can do the same thing. Also you can probably drive the distance with minimal number of clutch engagements.

According to this FBBO post... Foundry mark

A fat finger! :rofl: 489 (Corrected above)

39 ring teeth 11 pinion teeth. 39/11= 3.545454545 or 3.55. The part number 887355 looks like a Motive Gear part number C887355M is for a 741 case C887355L is for a 489 case They don't currently list one for a 742 case.

What I do is take 2 or 3 towels and roll them like Cheech and Chong would do making one long tube. The pull the filler out just enough to wrap the towels around the filler nozzle and wedge it in snug. I also fill on the slowest speed or if I know I'm filling it up, I speed to the last few...

Pm sent

Not saying it can't be done, just today I removed a built-in oven / microwave combo by myself. Just use physics to your advantage!

I do the same thing but with paper towels

So an engine on a hoist has 4 legs. The car will have to move forward 4 to 5 feet to install the engine and trans. At least one front wheel will have to go over the hoist leg

The only thing that will be a problem is moving the hoist sideways. You might be able to rig up some swivels on the stationary wheels

It always makes my wife laugh when I point out that the folie in a movie when a Chrysler starts is not right.

What car What year What wiring mods What alternator What voltage regulator Photos are really helpful

Part of my thinking was with a point ignition, the engine can stop with the points closed or open. If closed there will be more current through the bulkhead connectors possibly creating more voltage drop than when the engine is running. With an electronic ignition that might not be the case

You also need to disconnect the column from the floor/firewall and if you align the coupler just right you get more angle.