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I just had the same thing happen to me after working on the car for the last 4 months. Just took it out and the indicators in the dash turn on ( and you'll love this) with the parking lights and the fuel and temp gauge won't work when the lights are on. I think I need to reground the cluster.

I took apart the dash this evening. I tried smacking it and all it did was move the needle around but not get it back to center. The short must have caused the metal to twist a bit because I found that the needle was now bent in wards . I bent it back and now it returns to center on its own like...

A few nights ago I was fixing my headlight switch and I had moved the fuse box out of the way. I get it fixed, I reconnect the battery to test, it works, (and here's where I do something stupid) I then proceed to push the fuse box back into place without disconnecting the battery and then pow it...

I agree. I'm going to do a couple other tweaks as well but I'll be replacing that connector.

So I spent some time ohming everything out and I had continuity where it should be. I decided to plug back in the headlight switch and mess with it a bit. After pulling hard on the handle I got the headlights for a moment then some arcing noise and then it all went dead. Then I'd pull again and...

They are 6014

It's the headlight power only. I have everything else every time it blows. I've checked everything in that circuit. I think I'll put an in line fuse after the switch and before the bulkhead connector and between the bulkhead connector and the closest headlight and another fuse between...

Darn. I can't find why I keep blowing switches.

I think it has to do with my new powder coated dash frame. I'll run a ground to that back terminal and see if it helps.

Sorry to tack onto an old thread. I've gone through a few headlight switches after getting this 70 Dart ok the road. There must be a root cause I don't see the spade terminal that sticks out the back on the diagrams. Is it a ground for the switch? And if so that may be why i lose my lights.

Ok so I must have bent my vent tube when I removed the fill tube when I replaced the trunk floor. Is there some trick to this? Where does it exit, the inboard our outboard side of the frame? Seems like there is a possibility of putting gas on the exhaust if it comes out the inboard side and on...

Thanks I got it in.

So I'm putting my dash back together and it's been long enough I've forgotten where the wire loom routed at the steering column? If I put it behind the cluster it jams up against the speedo and the casing. Does it sit outside of the frame at the column?

Hello All, I've been reading all of the posts on clip placement but it's not helping. I have a 70 dart swinger hardtop with a vinyl top. 3 holes on the A pillars for clips. The clips were rotten when I took them off so I have no idea which were large or small. The OER kit i for has 19 clips of...

Thanks guys. I'm back in town and can continue with this. I'll post when it's fixed.

Hi guys. I got the instrument cluster lights working on my non rallye 70 swinger. Now to the temp and fuel gauge. I test for continuity on the posts and get nothing. I've tried a few limiters and they don't seem to make a difference. However they do have different resistance. I'm thinking my...

So I'm piecing my dash back together after a rebuild. I'm bench testing the cluster. I've grounded the cluster to a battery. I have turn signals, e flashers, the highheam light, and the oil light. I can not get the cluster lights to work. runnings lights and headlights function New headlight...

Howdy - I'm having trouble getting my classic industries correct pins through the firewall. They are the pins that hold in the dash insulation. If I try pulling them through they snap off and when I push thru they just bend. Is there a trick to it?

So I have replaced my cowl and firewall. I need to reinstall the windshield wiper stuff. I don't see a windshield wiper motor gasket on yearone or classic. Is there such a beast? Also, I noticed that yearone wants $10 for a wiper linkage bushing. There looks to be a few. Has anyone found rebuild...

I'm going to find a 360 and install a set of domed pistons. Seems like the easiest thing to do. Raising the CR isn't really an issue, I was just hoping for bolt-ons. My normal machine shop only charges me about $150 bucks to mill down the pair of heads if I go that route. It's the fitment...

I spoke with Comp Cams this morning. They're thinking I'll be ok with this cam 20-223-3 - Xtreme Energy™ Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshafts

Which cam spec, intake, head, and carb combo would you recommend for a just a hot rodded small block with a ldb4. Having power around 35-5500 and a lopey idle. I'd put the 4 barrel on the stock but I don't think it can use it.

The motor is stock 76 with the crappy smog 318 heads (63cc) I think factory specs have it at 8.5 Static Compression Ratio. I'm having trouble finding the actual size of the 308s chamber. (If you know or know where I can find out LMK) I've seen numbers in the 50s and 70s. I'm hoping it's smaller...

Just had someone measure. 230 @ 050. Didn't measure LSA.

My info on the cam is really shotty. I'll have to get it in my hands to get more and that won't happen for a while. It's just a cruiser but will want to break the tires loss at will. Might take it to a race night or something just to see what happens.

So I've decided to build the top end of my 318. I have a 480 cam, an ldb4 intake, 308 heads, and a holley 750 available. Thoughts and tips? I don't want to build an over fueled dog.

I have a local guy coming for it. If that falls through I'll PM you.

Super Six set up, intake, BBD, kickdown, air cleaner. $300

I have all four door panels from a 74 Valiant. Ships from 97211. $40.