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so the correct procedure is ? exhaust valve starts to open-- adjust intake intake valve opens all the way and starts to close-- adjust exhaust or is there another way? duration @ .050 is 282/286 cam card calls for install at 110* installed a 106* heads are Indy 360-1 CNC 245 As far as...

Thats the way I've always done it, Just surprised it was this far off. and was thinking I was maybe doing something wrong. Assumed the engine builder or dyno guys would have checked it a little closer. there were a couple valves I don't think were even closing. Thanks,

Hi, New engine, 422 stroker roller cam .740/.722, installed 106* (engine wasn't built by me, when I first saw it, it was complete) Engine was broken in on dyno, and I ran it for 1/2 hour and changed oil and filter. I went to adjust the valves (first time by me). maybe 25% of the valves were...

Agreed a bigger carb would help, haven't been to track since I got the 880 holley. along with better converter. have to look into some 1.6 rockers. Thanks. Remember Herb McCandless telling me a long time ago I would go .4 to .5 sec quicker if a used a dominator. guess I should have listened.

2.02 valve , carb when racing was a BG 750 DP (that could be bigger). using a holley 880 cfm vacuum sec. on street. also just noticed the converter is a 4200. might consider 1.6 rockers. T&D still good? or is there a better option?

Still here, just a slow typer.

Was thinking 10.2's I think the W2's have alot left. They are basically untouched from when I bought them new 40+ years ago. they have been on the car probably 35 years. Mild pocket porting, back cut the valves, think thats it. The STX-21 cam (.560 lift) was put in when it became a street...

Thanks Rumblefish, These are awesome!

Thanks Guys, now just have to decide between a stroker, or R3 with a roller with Indy heads, or R3 with a roller with my W2 heads.

Planning next engine. current engine is 360 12:1 (actual), STX-21 cam, W-2 heads with pocket porting, Holley W2 intake, 4:56 gears. car weighs 3100 w/ driver. this motors dyno'd at 510HP maybe a little more now with better carb. current best is 10.64 at 125. So if I leave everything the same...

'71 Duster 2860# (3100 with driver) ladder bars, Think mine were 120's, remember thinking that seemed pretty light, but they worked good. Best bet would be to call or email some of the chassis places and see what they suggest.

Interesting to see some 1/4 mile times and speeds. Still remember how the ''275" HP 340's were way faster then the 300+ HP chevies.

Thanks rumble, but I've got a pretty good idea of how stuff works. was just trying to add some clarity on what problem the pop sticks were originally used to correct.

???

They told me it had to do with fuel pooling in certain intake runners, the sticks caused a little turbulence , that helped keep fuel and air mixed (on the std. 340 heads anyway)

Would like to see that, I remember using "popsicle sticks" in the Offy port-o-sonic manifolds with std. 340 heads. Never saw any used with W2 stuff. Thanks

I got some too. Guess we should have bought more. :) Mine are still alive and well and in use.

Yes keep front clamps tight, maybe add one or two. Also most mild 440's don't have to worry about "massive" wheel stands. :)

He was doing GREAT when he had Yates on the team. When he dumped him, team took a pretty quick nosedive. Never understood why he got rid of him.

Honestly, I had more problems with leaks when I didn't lower the pan, so seemed like the extra step was worth it. never had a oil pan leak. But maybe I'll try it your way again next time.

So I'm the only one that loosens the oil pan bolts, and drops the front of the pan, a little bit? :-)

Hadn't even thought about that. In my case, the guy that told me to go to 120 ft-lb was the one who honed it (with plates).

FWIW. Along time ago, the guy that did my machine work (He does LOTS of Mopar engines.) told me to use studs and go to 120 ft-lbs. on small block Mopar heads. I'm running 12.5. Blew one head gasket, head was slightly warped, cleaned it up, used fel pro gaskets, And haven't had any problems for...

Used to have mine hooked up to a temp. controlled switch, mounted in the manifold. After a run would cool the motor to 120* then shut everything off.

Clamp the front half of the spring solid, on the rear side I used to run clamps with a 1" or so air gap. this let the spring hit the tire a little harder at the beginning but still control the spring after the initial hit. Hopefully you have some kind adjustable shocks, (they're worth their...

If you want some additional info, google jiffy lube- southern California, I remember a TV station had a field day with them on a couple of occasions. hidden cameras, not doing work and charging for it. Did a big story on them, then went back 2 years later, caught them doing the same thing again...

Thats how I did mine, about 30 years ago, two control valves, with a switch so I could pick one or both. with a 2 step and a delay box.. Had to make a 2800 rpm chip for the 2 step, or use a variable resistor. Foot flat on the floor, 2 step holding it to 2800 (brakes won't hold much more)...

mine dyno'd 510hp weighs 3100#(with me in it) runs 122-123 in the cool fall air.

Just got off the phone with the guy checking the rear end, much to his amazement , he said the rear end checks out almost perfect, said he hasn't seen one this good in a long time. Unfortunately this means I have a problem somewhere else. As the rear end wasn't square in the car. The ladder bars...