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I have a 68 convertible and made sub frame connectors cheap from 1.5x 3 square stock. The difference was noticeable...even with the torque boxes. Both made a difference.

That’s exactly how these are set up

The PO must have reversed them. Thanks.

I'm replacing my outer tie rod ends with Moog ES319R which rockauto lists as the correct part (no L or R indicator so I assumed it was good for both sides. The old one came off easy with a reverse thread (screw in to remove). The new one seems to be the opposite thread. I feel like I'm going...

Did you have any issues clearing Floorplans with 2x3 or did you have to cut into the pans? Just curious.

I accepted that no matter what I would have to modify the connectors to fit my car. With that in mind i did a lot of research and bought 1.5" x 3" steel stock, cut the ends to mate to the car and welded them in. Huge difference and was only about $60. That size stock will clear the floor pans...

That works thanks

I do! If you are willing to ship to 19060 let me know. Thanks. I was considering a retaining clip but factory is always the way to go

I know i can get these aftermarket but seeing if anyone has these laying around. 1) One of the upper control arm bolts I removed when replacing the control arm just had a regular washer on it vs the concentric washer. I assume that's no good so looking to see if anyone has 1 washer before I...

Old man Mopar is my guardian angel this week. Worked Ike a champ and yes the nut was not easy to take off. Thanks again for all the help

So I'm rebuilding the suspension on my 68 dart. It's all apart, new lca bushings in and new Qa1 uppers ready to go. I was reading the install advice on here and realized I forgot to check to strut rod bushings. They are indeed bad. Right now the rods are disconnected from the lca but connected...

Thank You!! this makes perfect sense. It came out in 5 mins.

Im doing a front end rebuild and am left with the LCA pivot nut which just spins the shaft when trying to remove. I left some tension on the torsion bar but that doesn't seem to help. I can't see anyway to hold the shaft still. Based on the other bushings, this one is probably non existent...

Sorry yes lower control arm pivot. Thanks!!!!

In the process of removing my lower control arm for rebuild, the nut from the pin fell somewhere in the engine compartment and I cant find it. Are these bolts easily replaced or are they a special size? Thanks in advance.

Not sure if I'm the person you are getting shipping quotes for but since I didn't hear from you I just bought Qa1 parts. Sorry if I caused any issues

I'll take them. I need small ball joint as I'll keeping my drum brake set up. PM sent

was looking for both upper and lower shipped to 19060

any interest in selling just the control arms? No hub or brake parts?

If you don't have vacuum at idle but at throttle from it it'll be port vacuum which is usually the distributor advance.....other than that not sure.

If you decide to ship I'm interested

make sure the pushrod length is adjusted correctly if it's adjustable. There's a tool to ensure you have the right length. Otherwise you may not be getting full travel.

This is exactly what i was looking for!! Thanks

I have a 68 Dart with front drum brakes (4" pattern) which I'd like to keep. I wanted to replace the front A arm bushings and upper and lower ball joints and not sure if if its easier (or even possible) to replace with all new tubular or new a arms, etc. I'd like to get the offset bushing...

heat gun! i've use a heat gun to bring back the red GM seat belt mechanisms and it worked great.

Will the ball joints fit the stock spindles (drum brake) ? meaning can i replace my extisting upper control arm and lower ball joint with this or does it require different spindles? I want to keep the drum brakes. I have the small bolt pattern wheels I'd like to keep.

SOLVED - so my initial issue was a bad mopar orange ignition box. Replaced with a new (but bad) GM HEI module and replaced again with a good GM HEI. During troubleshooting i installed a new distributor rotor and cap and accidentally shifted all the wires one off. That was causing the no start...

UPDATE: Installed another new GM HEI module....now I have good spark from the coil. I guess the other [NEW] module from Amazon was bad. Car wanted to start but didn't. On to distribution....I'll recheck the plug gaps as I think they were .35 and as suggested should be .40 to .45 and make sure...

I did check the voltages. There are 2 wires coming from the key switch, one with 12v key on and one with 12v crank. They both are wired to the module and to the + of the coil. I'm thinking trigger problem as well.....

I appreciate the advice. The GM HEI is mounted to an aluminum plate with the correct paste. I tried 3 coils (original mopar, MSD cansiter, and the new FD478. I think i can rule out a coil failure. I verified a full 12v and despite the full 12v wired a relay direct to the battery to make sure.