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Finally got some pictures of my setup. Looks to be around 1/4" for me as well. You can see the one trimmed stud and it does look like I just shaved the plastic tower around it

Just because I'm curious, is this a sleeper thing or do you just genuinely want a quieter car? I did a cam swap on my Viper a while back and have never been able to quiet it down since. Just not a lot of market for quiet with those cars, especially when you need 3" exhaust to go with it. Not...

Has anyone done something to replace the original ground strap with something more robust or mount to a new location? Mine has looked pretty rough for a while now, and I've got a fair deal more going on electronically now that I have a modern engine and other stuff installed. Everything...

Yeah, it's an old setup though. I did my swap with an 06 5.7 the better part of 10+ years ago, so TTI was about the only option out there aside from stock manifolds. Can't complain too much though, it all bolted in fine and seem to fit okay. Definitely tight in a few places like the steering...

I think a lot of those oil specs were also because of the MDS, not necessarily clearances. The MDS system was pretty picky on oil weight and would give people issues when they ran thicker stuff at least from what I recall reading. Not that bearing clearances couldn't play into that, but I know...

My PS VC is pretty close as well. I know I had to cut off the stud portion of the bolts for it to make it fit. I can't recall if I took a grinder and put a bit of a bevel on it or not though. I drove it to work today though, so I'll try to remember to grab some pictures. I did do a cam swap...

I believe that should be in a service manual. I know my Viper has all the factory clearance values in its manual, but the 6.4 came in multiple vehicles, so less sure about it.

That flange crossed my mind as well. You might be able to run a slightly undersize washer and deal with it that way. Would still act as a safety if it tried to lift, but it might move a bit before it hit the flange.

Lol, I actually did the same. I had one of their inclinometer/gyroscope sensors I was hoping to use for something, but never really got the chance to try it out. We use them at my new job as well for tilt sensors I think. I think they actually have some other CAN versions of their products as...

Maybe unlikely, but could it be possible the fender has just moved in a little over time from fatigue? So the "problem" might actually be the fender to begin with, not the K frame? I'm more inclined to believe that it was just tolerances at the time and how things stack up when all assembled...

I've had a similar thought on an accelerometer for a while now as well. They have some super cheap like, $5 ones designed for the Raspberry Pi or Arduino that I've looked at just to play with. Should be pretty easy to feed that back into the MS. I started on a Pi because I just had one in the...

Depending on how handy you are with electronics and code, you could pretty easily build your own. I have an Arduino currently running a small column mounted display and have gotten fairly familiar with how the MS CAN works. I have debated using some of the extra inputs on it (or buying a whole...

The casting part of that cluster certainly looks A body to me. I've had mine apart enough times to recognize that one easily. The front is different than what I'm used to seeing, but guessing that's just a later model thing (I've only played with the 67-69 style stuff). Not sure what it takes...

I guess maybe it was like this from the factory, but I'd do a couple more measurements before slotting and moving the K frame over as that is going to alter your suspension geometry as well. 1/8" probably isn't a big deal and you could likely adjust most of the domino effects out, but shifting...

Any chance you remember how long your frame connector tubes were off the top of your head? I need to order some material at some point and keep forgetting to pull a tape measure on my car, but figured if you had some rough numbers at least I'd know how long of a stick I'd need to be looking for.

I know the MS now has "unofficial" DBW support. By that I mean that it technically offers it, but has lots of disclaimers everywhere saying it's experimental and not to be used as a primary control. That doesn't fix the CC issue though. I have been trying to add CC to my car via my own...

I've always thought this class was one of the coolest things in racing. I didn't realize it was actually as restrictive as it was though. I thought it was exactly what the name said "factory appearing, stock tire", otherwise no holds barred. I swear I remember seeing articles and videos about...

I've got an MS3X running my 5.7 in my 67 Dart currently. For the long story, I originally swapped the engine into the car with a carb and an MSD box because I was in college and didn't have the money to buy a nice fuel tank with a built in pump (this was 10+ years ago). I also bought the...

Believe me, I'd love to get there eventually. I don't recall the Viper ratio off the top of my head, but I want to say it's ~3 turns lock to lock. If I had power steering of some variety on the Dart I would certainly be looking at a faster ratio, but back when I did the Hemi swap over a decade...

2 hours probably isn't that crazy. I'm guessing I spent at least that or more when I tried to do mine just recently, though admittedly I had a little more to work with as I had to keep taking the camber bolts out to adjust the length on my new tubular arms. Between old, rusty, and just...

Faster ratio is potentially on my radar for sure. I wasn't sure what it was going to feel like with just the added caster, so I didn't want to swap too much stuff at once (plus the boxes are quite expensive). I would probably split the difference and do a 20:1, though I have been toying with...

I think a hybrid approach might work. My 67 has recently become pretty close to a daily driver with a 35 mile commute each direction, so I've been working on doing what I can to make it more pleasant to drive. I have a 24:1 factory manual steering box and a 73+ k frame, so pretty much 73+...

I just swapped some HDK upper control arms onto my car to get some more caster as it sees a lot more highway miles and it's something I should have done a long time ago. Not sure what the car was aligned at before (I probably have the paper somewhere), but guessing it was close to stock and...

I'm planning to do mine with the frame on jackstands, but only because I found that the doors and windows worked better with it that way. I lifted it up on a set of QuickJack scissor jacks to do all 4 tires the other day and noted how much better everything worked. I also have cracks on my...

You might include which axle you are running as that will affect what backspacing you would need. I have a B body axle in my 67 with the offset shackles and about the largest tire I'm comfortable running is a 255 section width. I did have to trim/roll the fender lips on the inside of the wheel...

I don't think so. I've tried adjusting them and thought I had the window all lined up finally, but it's right back where it was before. I think I actually even rebuilt them a while back. I have some noticeable cracks going on at my rockers at the back edge of the doors as well, so guessing it's...

Yeah, I'm not sure I understood the whole "leave it on all 4 tires" mentality. My car is sitting on all 4 tires and you have to use your shoulder to open the passenger door, that's the problem. It's needs to flex back to "straight" or whatever you want to define before you try to reinforce it...

That's what I was planning as well. Simple enough to buy the material and make it work. I'm by no means a welder, but I've managed to stick some metal to other metal that has held up well enough, so figured I'd give it a shot. The welding is pretty limited in the long run, mostly just some...

My car is quickly going from "spends most of its time under a cover" to daily driver thanks to my new job, so this mod has moved its way up my priority list for next year. So far it's just been new tires and a set of tubular upper control arms to get better caster for highway driving (hopefully...

I only cared because I'm planning to run it through my MS for the added features I can have with that. On an older can with a mechanically driven fan it would probably not matter that much, but since I have electric and wanted to use those to make the condenser work better I didn't want them...