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Remember these are plastic.

New cams are good but also use new plastic bushings.

These could be replacements. I replaced some of these on new cars at th dealership.

Most fuses are fed from one main bar. Check for a loose wire in the back. Those contacts are really bad. After cleaning then, coat them with dielectric grease.

Did you drop the fuse block and check for a disconnected wire in the back?

I have a late 1968 with threaded speedo.

There is a line pressure problem.

I don't believe that PS makes any difference in the K-member.

Are you saying that the ring gear is hitting the case? Are these new gears?

What allowed PS in BB 68-69 "A" bodies was not a different "K" member but a new exhaust manifold.

It is easier to replace it, but a machinist can turn down the area and make a sleeve to bring it back to standard.

Mill heads and block only to square them up. Manage compression with pistons.

Try R/T Specialties.

It is much, much easier to get 460hp out of a modern engine than the old 318. A 460hp 318 would be barely recognizable due to its heavy reliance on modifications and aftermarket involvement, let alone the money needed. It is a mistake to compare old cars with new. We appreciate old cars just as...

The FSM should show you how to release the two cables, the rest is standard auto tranny stuff, cooler lines, crossmember. You will be changing driveshafts. Be sure to have the correct size torque convertor snout and crankshaft diameters.

Price?

There is usually an adjustment on the spring inside. The spring tension can be increased or decreased. Sounds like you should decrease the spring pressure.

Anytime you get a locksmith involved, it will be more expensive than buying a repo set. After you locksmith it, you still have to polish it. Kits are available to re-key it yourself, but approaching the price of a repo set.

You have spark and fuel and it won't start ? The only time I have seen that is when a timing chain has skipped some teeth.

What is the current bore? Maybe it will clean up with a bore job.

"Reconditioned" on Ebay? unlikely. There is a small bearing at the top of the column and a bushing/bearing at the bottom, easily replaced. Cost= $40.

Do you have spark? fuel?

Just an observation- those appear to be old original ball joints with no zerks.

Remember you will need a disc brake M/C without the residual check valve in the port.

Factory disc brakes located the proportioning valve midway between front and back. I would think that any distribution block with a "built-in" proportioning valve would work. I would expect some re-bending of the lines would be needed.

An owners manual does not contain any mechanical/repair information. You will need the FSM= factory service manual.

I have a "speedometer" shop locally that repairs, calibrates speedos and gauges. Check your local area.

Rear.

Maybe your's is missing, but there is a metal strap that clips onto the fuel line nipple at the sender and bridges the flex line and then clips to the metal line again, grounding the fuel line.

Synthetic is good as long as it's the right synthetic. I use Redline made for these 4-speeds.