Search results for query: copper connecting rods

Starting from the top: Velocity stack, 600 cfm Holley double pumper carb, stock cylinder heads re-surfaced (gasket matched with Dremel tool) with blocked crossover passage and steel shim head gaskets using copper wire placed in gasket bore ring as a kind of "poor man's" o-ringed block, polished...

THere's a few posts about them. Search Results for Query: copper connecting rods | For A Bodies Only Mopar Forum

Never seen all 8 before. And they came out of a 383 that was factory .020 overbore.

I would agree with you, but the cost estimate to have my rods resized, reconditioned and fitted for ARP hardware was $20.00 less than new Eagle rods.

All connecting rods are copper plated before going thru the heat treat process...so are cams. The copper protects the steel from damage when exposed to the flames in the oven. Most make it thru the tanks that remove the copper but some don't. I paid $180.00 to have my 340 rods resized and ARP...

Yeah, everyone says .060 but I’ve run it at .055 and there were some witness marks of blowing he carbon off the pistons so I didn’t push that any further. In fact, that was when you could get Groden connecting rods. I don’t know what happened to that guy but his rods used dowel pins to locate...

Then why didn't he see it when he built it?

I found those in an engine. Run it!

It's copper. The factory did that on some connecting rods to get the weight up to match the others. You'll see that in small blocks sometimes too. Seal it up and drive it, they are fine.

How often to you plan on running it at full power? With the 6-71, we are in T/A, X, or R block territory here. Of course head studs are mandatory, and I would be looking at the SCE copper with the embossed Neoprene Printo-Seal gaskets here. I would be considering a Hughes girdle and main stud...

Thanks Krooser. You made me look around a bit and I found a patent application where this use of copper coating was described for rods. It says that copper coating is used to prevent the hardening process from reaching certain areas of the rod, by blocking the absorptionof carbon atoms used in...

This is the pic off their webpage. Mine are buried in the basement at the moment. Need to get them out this afternoon. Like I said, I was using a feeler gage and mill vise parallel. I've been cleaning the block all afternoon. I'll get the surface gage and test indicator on it later. I...

Actually been doing work on the old Cuda. It is still sitting in my back yard, but been working on parts. Bought a nice set of rust free doors and some other parts off a guy in OH, stripped them, cleaned them up, put some windows in them, and they are ready to bolt on the car. But it is too...

I see where you are coming from, but a couple things should be clarified: The "ground," or equipment grounding conductor, AKA green wire, AKA bare copper wire, is meant to provide a low impedance path back to the transformer in order to clear faults on electrically conductive materials that...

Way old post here and quite a few more covering the same subject... I found some info that sez the copper is plated on the rods to protect them from the carbon...

Well, its been a long time, but I finally stopped shunning my car for blowing up at the finish line and decided to pull the engine to see what broke 2 years ago. Here is the original thread if interested. I think I’m done for the year…. I drained the oil and found lots of copper particulates...

Interesting reading about motor oil Engine Oil Mythology Thanks to Bob Olree – GM Powertrain Fuels and Lubricants Group GMPT – Fuels & Lubes Myths are ill-founded beliefs held uncritically by interested groups. Over the years there has been an overabundance of engine oil myths. One was that...

I just found this article about motor oil , interesting reading. Engine Oil Mythology Thanks to Bob Olree – GM Powertrain Fuels and Lubricants Group GMPT – Fuels & Lubes Myths are ill-founded beliefs held uncritically by interested groups. Over the years there has been an overabundance of...

Here you go gents, has nothing to do with corrosion resistance, it revolves around the hardening process. Or to be more precise, preventing the hardening process. It allows you to have hardend bearing surfaces, while preventing the hardening of the full rod body, so she will bend, rather than...

"Copper" colored connecting rods in an engine (318)??? | Moparts Question and Answer | Moparts Forums another conversation about copper coated rods......just think guys if your rod is undersize you can sent it back and get it copper coated ....lol

Notice other differences between the two pictures? Take a look at the sharp edges under the nut on the non copper colored rod. I was told that these were colored by shot blasting and the smoother edges of the copper colored rod would seem to bear that out.....

To be honest I don't know if that is rust? It's just those two connecting rods and just that. I was reading that sometimes the factory used to copper coat some connecting rods?

Reused the factory rod bolts on the rods they came off of. I'm starting to debate a rod bolt issue and I think I may have had a heat vs bearing issue. It broke in just fine. No issues at all. Minimal smoke on start up, burning all of the assembly oil in the chambers. Timing was fine. It ran...

I didn't see any performance parts in the for sale area. I did read the post about the buy out and I saw some parts there I'd want if they was ever made, especially the DOHC 24 Valve head set up!

A good resource for used, and limited production new parts is www.slantsix.org. There are often "group buys" going on over there, either make available parts that are not available as one of's, or give a good price break. One of the lastest group buys was an adapter, from Wilcap, to use a GM...

Hey everyone, I purchased a 318 a few days ago and got it torn down. The motor ended up having a spun main bearing. Well, I just cleaned the rods up today and one of them has a way different coloration then the rest, it's a kind of bronze/copper color...see pic. Anyone got any ideas?? Oh...

Hi Tyler. You knew I would respond didnt you? You question is vague...., Matter of Fact, almost too vague to address directly. I am sorry if that is Blunt...but it is what it is. Just to get this info out there, in clear plain text...so maybe it will start to soak in. Your first...

George @ Fat Boys Auto Machine in Salinas, CA (Owner of a 67 Charger) has my Crank, Rods & Pistons... He claims that these "Skinny Rods" are "The Ones to Have" they are lighter and plenty strong... I spun 3 Rod Bearings and threw a bunch of Copper & Steel through my Engine!*!*! Woops. Still...

its to the copper. and i was told it only had 3000 miles on the motor because the kid wanted big block power, but its been sitting for 3 years...the sitting wouldnt affect anything tho...one of the bearings sits soooo sloppy in 1 of the connecting rods...usually when you get that the rods are...