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I been down this road with my 67 barracuda FB with the 215’s and even 205’s. I have the later 73+ disk brakes so it also increases the track with making the issues worse. My car is just a toy hot rod nothing special. So I opted for removing an inch of the fender opening. To create enough room.

Registered!!!

The t slot.....

I am going to pull the vac line off & see if I can now move the valve open as I'm wondering if no vac is causing the valve to not open tho I would think I coulda moved the lever with pliers. I will find out tomorrow if it is locked shut.

$300

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Nice Mirror!

$75

$35

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$50

I am at the beginning stages of getting my ‘72 225 /6 running. It starts and runs but it is shaky and won’t idle. I pulled the plugs and checked the plug wires for resistance. All of the plugs had a nice tan color to them except for cylinder #5. It showed signs of being really lean, It was ghost...

I would not think there would be any issues using o e on each bolt/screw/ stud as long as there is clearance enough for the washer. Thought just hit me... I'm the 67 FSM it shows them being used on the outer screws/studs only. I wonder if the 2 inner "lock" the manifold in place and the outer...

Yup, bad news...

I remembered for you. Front is the designed stud chrome is the OEM stud Huge size difference but it worked. There is a type of bolt called a "sex bolt" or "binder" bolt. Google it. Something like that might work

The POR stuff rocks! it looks like crap until you start the engine, then it melts into the manifold, all the brush strokes go away. But the best part is touching them up with a small brush - start the engine and the touch ups melt into the existing paint and you can't even find the repairs -...

'Too much idle timing'. What nonsense. Smart engine tuners use minimal t slot opening so that more of the t slot 'sweep' is available for the transition from the idle to main cct.

This is the notch This is the little tang Good video.

Can’t remember if I’ve posted in this thread. Eventual induction for the duster. 660s, TR1Y, tach drive distributor. All the 70s nonsense.

at one point I thought that the switch from red to blue on 318s coincided with the switch from forged to cast cracks - is that correct?

The gloss is certainly a LOT easier to care for and keep looking nice as compared to the textured organisol that the factory used. and therefore, that's what I did on the hood of the car in my avatar.

Red engines are faster, and blue engines are slower...

also there is a good blast of cold air from the outside coming up pretty much past the brake pedal toward my crotch . any thoughts on where it might be coming from? I got down there & saw no holes/passages that might be allowing this & the eng cover appears to be latched tight. RR

No word from @FWDLK Frank on this project in quite a while….

He's being attacked by a samsquanch... :eek:

1970 and some early 1971 340 orange, NOT red as stated in list

What spec are you building to? If grampscamp cant help i may be able. Cold Lake alberta.