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Radio ad? Damn, we've hit the "Big Time". Finding the part number was all I could manage from home.

Try me on monday. BCA isn't my brand, so you might end up having to go to the 'other guys'.

You're looking for a 206-LOE in BCA/National. Doesn't look like it crosses to CR/SKF.

When guys give me a hard time for asking questions, I usually tell them, that I'm not just making conversation, that I actually want to sell them the right part on the first try.

As far as computer vs paper catalogs, it's all about using the right tool for the job. Some companies just print shitty catalogs. Some have useless web catalogs, some don't transfer well into the "standardized computer catalog format".

This is it exactly. Specific year/make/model knowledge is way less important that problem solving, deductive reasoning, and being able to read between the lines in the catalog, whether is on the computer or paper.

I've been joking for years that I should write a book about working in the auto parts business. Problem is, some of the stories are so bizarre, nobody who hasn't been there would believe it.

I made it kinda late, and somehow forgot to take any pictures.

The part number that 340doc posted is a two bolt plastic reservoir master cylinder. Originally for mid 90's Dakota, with I believe a 24mm bore. There are at least 6, maybe as many as 10 master cylinders that look the same, just with different bore diameters, thread sizes, and some don't have...

Pedal pressure is feels very normal for Mopar manual brakes. A little on the heavy side, but nothing bad. One buddy couldn't believe it was manual brakes, after driving it he had to check under the hood to confirm there was no booster. Also, you might find that the Raybestos part is actually...

I have that Raybestos master cylinder on my 70 Duster with manual single piston calipers, and it works just fine.

Looking pretty good in the pictures, there Chris.

At least the weather's cooperating with you Chris...

Years ago I worked at a shop with a Mustang Dyno. I could spend hours ranting, but won't. 215 is a reasonable number for a mild 360. Mine made 205 or so depending on tune. Best way to look at it is as a baseline. You're at zero, how do you improve from here? Remember also, that peak hp is...

I wouldn't worry too much about replacing the bolts. The torque spec is only about 7 ft/lbs, isn't it?

Actually, if you're working with SBP on both, and your 7-1/4" has 10" brakes, everything except the backing plate will 100% interchange. Backing plates MIGHT work with one hole drilled for the lower centre stud. With 9" brakes, only one way to be sure...

On the torsion bar tool, that one's so specialized, it's hardly a fair test. I had borrowed one from a friend, and left it sitting on my counter at the parts store where I work for almost two weeks. Nobody figured out what it was for. None of the employees, not a single mechanic, or any of...

Blue Streak/Standard part number is S503 for the 5/8" size.

A while back I bought a whole collection of Mopar leftovers that a friend had been hoarding. In this collection I found a marine bellhousing, and the pictured flywheel. 143 tooth, no sign a clutch had ever been bolted up, and 1.3" hole drilled all the way through. Is that common for a 360...

My cars were around 50/50. 66 Dart(Canadian Valiant) was power drum, 68 Dart 270 power drum, 72 Demon manual drum, and my current 70 Duster started life with manual KH disc brakes. I also had a 65 Fury II wagon with a manual single pot master cylinder and 11" drums all around...

If it's a 70-71 Duster look for signs of leaks around the taillights. The seals were a closed cell foam type of deal that got brittle and disintegrated over the decades. I also think that the 72 and later trunk lid with the centre ridge hold their shape/fit better/seal better. But, that's...

I'm using them on my 70 Duster, but with the whole tti 2.5" system. Fit is excellent, once you twist & turn them into just the right spot.

Damn, I've wanted one of those trucks for years. Good score!

Holy crap Chris, that's an ugly find!

Another thanks to cannucky, I'm wearing the shirt he brought me at work today!

For me, once the air cleaner is off, it's just a matter of time before the air cleaner stud bites me on the wrist.

Hell, I ran out of gas this last saturday. I called a friend, and I couldn't believe how quick he got there. Turns out, it got him out of the yard work his wife had assigned him.

I finally got the chance to use my friend's old analog timing light, and the advance works as expected. No retard, before advancing. It looks like it was a timing LIGHT problem all along. I also found some Mr Gasket 925D springs, used one with one stock light spring, and have all my mech...

Actually, I do have a distributor with the advance plate welded, part of an old throttle body injection experiment...

I hope it's not the chain, it was brand new. I'm leaning towards the Crane ignition box, apparently they had a high failure rate...