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I missed the Vacuum secondary Double Pumper, that must be a new model. Now with twin blowoff-power valves! :D

Cool, thanks for the info. Didn't want to go grinding on mains if there was a better way. Guess not.

You're right about squish quench, 360 heads are kind of dogs. If you have flattops you WANT closed chamber heads, no matter what. That squish quench is power add AND anti detonation.. allows more advance. Lower torque band, more slack top end. Like high compression without the cost...

Oh yeah, where do you get that single ARP main bolt? Anybody sells singles?

If they stopped at 50 that sounds fishy. Most do .40 or .60, so that tells you that maybe there's something going on. It's worth taking to another shop and spending $100 for a sonic check, and if you can get him to pay half of it, even better right? I wouldn't stop at .050, if it were...

"The cast cranks were to porous and oil would leak thru the casting and leak out the drilled hole." What!? I assume you mean there was a hole... not oil going THROUGH steel?

Moroso Cool cans for fuel cooling... just throw a couple ice cubes in and go for a drive.

Keep the 318 as a backup. Build something else. 416 stroker b-b-bang for buck baby.

Stroke a hemi, carve a cuda body out of an ancient redwood, and dip it in gold as a rust preservative. I guess it depends on your wife.

I thought about the ARP bolt obviously but is that what people do? Seems to me the preload on a bolt can't ever get close to the force to match up with the existing studs all torqued down, and it would be the weaker side... If it did happen, I'd feel pretty stupid. So I'm trying to...

It's not the pulley, it's the pump. Get a hi-flow pump and take the thermostat out completely, depending on climate. No more problems.

"Now I have a reduced flow water pump (my mistake even though I have AC). Mate that to the underdrive pulley set up from March and I think I have too slow water flow to cool properly." You answered your own question in the first post.

RPM dual planes rock, air gap or not depending on hood/filter. Get a demon carb, you only cry one time when you pay for it. I've been down the road of power valves and leaky performers. Demon or nothing, won't EVER buy anything else. I'd say a 725 road demon if you can get one on...

Schumaker engine mounts aren't cheap but they do the job nicely.

He bought the cheap pump and the spring kit... I think. Test. Your. Pump.

Oh yeah and all the chassis upgrades will double the cost of the motor swap. If everything works as is, do the body work and spend the money on the interior/dynamat. Maybe a nice sound system so she can listen to NPR or something... right?

I'd keep the /6 if it were my wife. They can be the equivalent of gas-sipping 8's. And I think it's almost a cooler project. Easier to work on, cheaper parts... I guess that wasn't really your question, but that's a great motor you're **** canning.

Ok, I'll start a new thread on this rather than continue to annoy the other thread. I've got the ARP studs and the one down by the oil pump sticks up into the way of the pump housing, about 1/2" or so. Haven't really measured. 1wild&crazyguy says : "you need a 12 nut and have to grind it down...

you need a 12 nut and have to grind it down 'stud n all about .025 into the nut, as in down to where you're taken .025 off the nut. Doesn't this lose a couple threads on your highly loaded ARP nut cap? Is this how everybody does it? Seems to me losing threads, even 1-2, is bad and worth...

Yeah they pump up plenty fast enough w/o soaking of any kind. Like, 3 seconds. I DO NOT think it's a good idea to try to swap the guts from your SUMMIT part lifter into the housing for an old MOPAR lifter! Anybody else see potential problems with that? I don't care how faithfully they...

"but on the other hand had anyone did a 4 bolt main upgrade on there 360 block i can get the kits at a pretty good price!" Did you factor in the machining costs? What if your block is defective, got a spare?

I realize this is the wrong thread but I figured he got his question answered... and the answers looked pretty good.

When you go studs what do you do about the stud that blocks a wet sump oil pump? My pump body would have a stud about 1/2" deep into it with the stud in place. Do people replace this stud with an ARP bolt instead? What is done?

70 Duster with 3.55 sure 489, braced, super stocks, konis, cal-trax, no tires yet. Stock bench seats and lap belts. Have some weight to lose, but I'll work out. Stage 4 Erson solid roller forged 408 with ported 63cc eddy's 850 demon annular, just hooking up oiling to it now. Like a dummy I...

Cast anything is asking for trouble. Are you saving THAT much money on a finished motor? What, $200? What if it's the part that fails? Then how much are you saving? You'll need a new hood too, when it goes. Just sayin'... cheap insurance.

Also when you're assembling, it's a LOT easier to check stud threads for damage/dirt/etc than it is to clean out the inside of a block hole. You get foreign material in there, that gives a skewed torque reading and your bolt isn't "home". You wouldn't know unless you were checking for stretch...