Search results for query: *

Bad news. I just got off the phone with him. He thought he had two of them, but only has one, which he wants to keep. Sorry.

A friend has one. It is in Palatka, Fl. He will get back to me with price.

Not counting the engine, except as a "core". When was the last time you tried to by a Offie intake with carb, or a A833SO with a Hurst shifter? If I were in that area I would jump all over that for $500 (with hurst shifter), and I'm a cheapskate.

If the shifter is included (and is the Hurst shifter) it is worth more. A lot would depend on the location of the interested buyer.

Not positive but sure looks like one. I can measure the carrier, but that in itself will tell me nothing, if I don't know the size of the 8 1/4 or 8 3/4 ring gear opening.

I have a cone type SG unit, but don't know what it is for. A 7 1/4 ring gear is too small to fit on. I don't have a 8 1/4 or 8 3/4 gear to measure. Can someone measure a 8 1/4 ring gear for me? Thanks

Carb is 1966 or older slant six. Cannot determine the exact application with out the tag number. Just an FYI the carb for the 170 had a smaller barrel/venturi than the 225. I would have to look up the exact size. Edit: let me clarify that. The 170 standard shift engine had the smaller carb. The...

My first Mopar race car was a 65 Valiant model 200 4 dr sdn, with a 170 slant six. I use to tow it to the track with a 65 Valiant 4 door station wagon. At the present time I have two 64 Valiant 4 door sedans. One model 100 with a 170 slant 3 speed stick, and one model 200 with a 225 and 904.

PM sent about dash pad

Rusty, I didn't read the complete thread, but. The 64 Valiant I just got has the Bergman auto craft quick ratio power steering setup. I don't have the car running yet, but can tell you a couple of things. It is almost impossible to turn the steering wheel while pushing the car by hand. Of course...

Just a FYI. Bumper Boyz suck.

Available at Rockauto. 1972 DODGE DART 3.7L 225cid L6 Drum | Shop Now at RockAuto

I just pulled one out of a good carb, for a look/see. I can look at some of my junk carbs to see if there is one. Otherwise I don't see why I couldn't make one using my good one for a pattern. Basically just a piece of "sheet" metal with a small tab spot welded on.

Sorry people. The SG unit I have is NOT for a 7 1/4. Just assumed it was as it came with other 7 1/4 and 64 Valiant parts. When I took a good look at it, to make sure it was good, I discovered not 7 1/4. Not sure what it is at this time. Might be 8 1/4?

Might be worth it, but damm, you would think he would have cleaned off the vegetation befor taking the pictures.

Maybe today, but I don't know about next week

I have a 7 1/4 SG carrier available. However, the 7 1/4 had two different SG's the early "clutch" type, and the later "cone" type (just like the larger rears). The one I have is the cone type. If interested send me a PM.

Just a suggestion. Unless you are doing a restoration, the Dorman pan and the Mopar ridget gasket are the parts to use. Will not leak and has a drain plug. https://www.ebay.com/itm/225758241753...

I have those tools, and have never been able to use them. Just not enough room above the trans to the floor of the car. I find it easier to drop the pan, valve body, drive the old seal out from the inside, and press the new seal in with a bolt, nut, and a couple of washers. Hardest part is...

I have 5 "A" body Valiants. One 65 model 100 2 dr. sdn. One 66 2 dr htp, One 64 Signet 2 dr htp, One 64 model 100 4 dr sdn. One 64 model 200 4dr sdn.

If you really want this, I would suggest leaving a "refundable" deposit, with the condition that the deposit is refunded if you don't have a "good" title by a mutually agreed on date. Once the storage unit company has a "good" title there should be no problem. Be careful buying an RV that has...

I don't know the real reason the factory swaged the studs to lock the drums onto the hubs. But as stated, if you don't cut the swedge before pressing the studs, you will ruin the hub, which is made of unobtanium. I do have the swedge cutting tool in both the "A" body 7/17 size, and the larger...

Thanks for that info, but then why are most crank triggers (aftermarket) 2 wire reluctance sensors?

Yes, but why couldn't you use the stock Mopar pickup?

From what I gather it is "semi" batch fire. 3 sets of 2 cyls. I have a lot more reading to do. I'll get into this on my build thread, and try to stop hijacking rusty's thread.

Thanks. Trying to learn some modern "stuff" here. The 64 Valiant I just got came with the Gill Welding intake Crank sensor assorted other sensors (but I did not see a cam sensor). Has coil on plug ign system. With a Speedunio ECM. Would like to get it running by next summer.

Question? Would it not be possible to take a stock electronic distributer, and remove all except one of the reluctor "wings" and use that as a cam sensor? Of course lock out the advance.

Click on my name in this post. A window will open giving you an option to start a conversation. Click on that.

I might have some used pullies left. The problem is the aftermarket mount for the compressor does not locate the compressor in the correct location to use the factory pulleys. I used to sell mount and drives for the slant six...

Rusty, the engine in my Cuda was not turboed, it had a fogger system. From my experience a nitrous slant will make more low end torque, and a turbo slant engine will make more upper end HP. PS: I am not an expert on either system, and this is just my experience. In all probability a better...