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steel rockers does not equal high rpm. Sorry man but you need those Harland sharps

Man that plug is pretty important. It routes the oil thru the filter. Did the last guy not have it in there or what?

I swear I fed a 318 magnum 6 ft. of 1/4” rope before it locked it up

I run a felpro 1008 to 15 lbs of boost for thousands of miles

Maybe but I have doubts. It was a strong double roller and I had a v6 tensioner. I’ll check for slop. Cam is .490” 218/218 115 Lsa. Fairly mild cam. I think I floated the valves. These are EQ heads. Have about 2000 miles on this engine. Zero issues.

Not sure how because I have a pathetic 8.5:1 compression. A .039 gasket, pistons were down the cylinder .047” and my cam isn’t even that large. Barely .5” lift

No compression on 4 cylinders. Valves touched pistons on 6 cylinders. 2 survived. Must have floated the valves.

I pulled 5 plugs that are easy to get to. 3 require loosening exhaust. They looked ok. E85 keeps everything too clean it’s hard to see much. Gaps are good. I think the center post boot may have slipped off while under that hard pull. Going to shove a scope in it this weekend. You’d think putting...

Don’t doubt the worst but it didn’t make any scary noises and e85 is helpful. Bottom end is oem. No strange noises at the crankcase or oil separator. No i left it alone and changed the cap and rotor. The oil pump drive gear is pinned so no worry about it ever slipping. I set #1 to tdc...

That’s my last resort. Should start on its own tho. Even after sitting. I’ve thought to change the oil as well. May have a ton of alcohol in there I can’t tell. It hasn’t been mixed up from cranking but stick looks normal.

Was pulling very hard up a hill. Came over the other side and stalled at the stoplight 1/4 mile down. Found I Melted the center post on the distributor. Engine is in sig. 5.2 turbo, Megasquirt efi, e85. Changed all plug wires and the coil and the cap and rotor So I’ve never gotten it to start...

I rode in my friends plaid he rented on Friday and wow! The acceleration was absolutely unreal. I know I’ll never obtain that type of acceleration or 1/4 ET but it’s fun to strive for

I should mention I’m high altitude and run from 6-10,000 ft., my turbo seems to fall nicely on the map. Altitude correction is negative 3 psi. Running 13 psi up here is like running 10 at sea level. I have to play catch up with less atmospheric pressure. I don’t think I have an exhaust leak...

It certainly helps to have high gears compared to an NA car. I’m street only at the moment. Sorry guys, I should have posted my specs earlier: I used a oem bottem end magnum 318. EQ iron heads w/ 1.92 valves. Honed, ringed, and bearings for a stock bore. About 8.8:1 c/r. All roller valve...

Hey thanks! As for specs: Oem bottem end magnum 318. EQ iron heads w/ 1.92 valves. Standard bore, About 8.8:1 c/r. All roller valve train, turbonetics 62-1 turbo, tial 38mm waste-gate .84 a/r. I use e85 with 44lb injectors in a M1 single plane intake. Megasquirt 2 controller, diy missing tooth...

I just tried to tell that to the racer guys in that forum!

Stalls at 3200 or so I believe, just when I hit 10 lbs. 8 3/4 is apart now. I have the 489 case out. Shaving the auburn unit next week and new leafs/shocks.

318 running 13 lbs boost 904 auto 3500 stall. Pulling onto boost at 2500 and max boost by 4000. I have a boost control module for my Megasquirt but havent used it. Anyone have experience with any boost control? Want less tire spin off the line but still have a hard launch. Street not strip.

Hey I’m new to racing and getting my duster dialed in. Thinking about going from 3.55s to one click higher (numerically) I need better 0-60 measured seat of the pants. I have a friend and we raced his Rivian and his model 3 and he smokes me off the line but on a roll, I can hold my own w/ 13 lbs...

I think you’d pull some more life out of the block if you deburred everything and took all the edges off to prevent the crack from sharp stress risers. Oh and vibration. You didn’t touch on vibration.

If you use NOX Rust, you can leave it outside in the shed

How can anyone expect a part to last their life time and get what it’s worth when I have to worry about covid, climate change, war, celeb drama cycle every 5 years ? Buy cheap cause that’s what’s in stock and I’ll never see it again. And if it does, I’ll just take it back. No receipt? Over 3...

Now I want an all-brass toilet with a heated seat.

273 with mag heads at .060 quench. Magnum EFI.

I know! I’m so relieved. Did not want to take the pan off at all. I think I’ll leave it sealed up down there and check the crank thrust bearing externally instead. I have a nice starret gauge. Thanks for the advice!

Jacked it up and crawled under while running and found it. No gasket on the oil filter adapter lol. Pan must be solid.

I’ve had major thrust bearing problems in the past and wanted peace of mind. Maybe go as far as pull the caps and check the bearings. I did retorque the pan and no luck slowing it down. It starts leaking after about 1 minute on a cold engine. It’s not the sending unit. I looked around with a...

I didn’t use any sealer except the corners. Need to take the pan off and check the thrust bearing and also retorque all crank and rod bolts. So I wanted as much break-in run time as possible on it before taking the pan off. Used a 1 piece seal tho. Maybe the corner is leaking, I agree.it leaks...

I agreed but it’s beading up and dripping right there. My guess is it’s coming from farther back. Bolts are torqued