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To add to that, i moved the upper shock mounts out by fabbing up some weld on upper mounts, then to recess the fenderwell area back about three inches to gain turning radius, i cut out part of the wheelwell area in back and welded in a new piece of sheet metal, which created a fancy foot rest...

The early A cars just suffer with way too little room for that large 440. I have owned and raced a 65 dart/440 combo since 1981. A lot of work, but the best solution, is a different front suspension system of some sort. A Mustang 2 aftermarket kit will allow much more room. Subframe ties and a...

Sorry about coming late to the party, but wanted to contribute my 904 story in case you have not committed to a trans yet. I got a NEW 904 (actually a newer 1976 version) core from a friend and had it built for my 408 stroker combo. It had the 2.76 low gear set, and a modified valve body, still...

A thought, is there a beehive type spring that will compliment that cam? I am thinking it may work well, but may like a looser converter? on comparison, i went from a 590 flat tappet to a 286 @ 50, .750lift roller on a 535 with ported 906 heads many years ago. I went from 10.50s to 10.20s and...

The hemi grind cam seriously affected torque down low, causing the loss of almost 400 rpm stall speed. It is tough enough when you run a bit bigger cam in a 440, trying to use a stock converter, but with 100 less cubes to make torque, it REALLY hurts. On the other hand, when you ADD 100 CUBES...

Your results are what an old mopar performance manual stated for stall speeds of various converters. The 340, 383 and hemi all had a hi stall version of the 10 3/4 stock converter. They were the same, save for bigger flex plat to converter bolt size was bigger on the hemi.

Many years ago i ran a hemi hi stall 426 hemi stock converter behind a 440 stroked to 535, running a .590 cam and 11/1 compression, ported 906 heads. The tach showed 3600 if you can accept that. The car ran 10.60s at 3400 with that converter, 4:10 gears, 30 inch tall slicks. A converter built...

Now days i have twice the torque hitting the rear housing, 17,000 ft lbs. Do the math of a 30 inch ladderbar, and the shocks have to control 6800 lbs of pull at the hit. That is 3400 EACH. I am on my fourth shock upgrade on the car with the same 30 inch ladderbars. A mopar spring has a 20 inch...

Haviing raced since 1971, and with very little thought to what was happening at launch, i tried a number of things. Had i understood the math then, i may have come up with better solutions sooner. My first decent car was a charger with torqueflight, 440, 3000 stall, 4.30 gears, 28 x 9 slicks...

Mopar leafs are already biased for rise, so shocks to control the rate of rise, along with other tricks can make mopar springs work well, much faster ETs than most would think.

I will have to see what my friend choses to do. At this point, it will be 408 cubes, TF 190 heads, and if normally aspirated i believe 11/1 compression using a cam similar to what i used in my 504 hp 408 build, a Comp mutha thumpr 235/249/107. That motor tolerated 10,50 compression with EQ iron...

I am sure it rocked, given that much boost and Heads. I built a 408 using EQ heads,pumpgas, made 518 tq and 504 hp. I thought i saw an add for EQ heads recently?

Heads have been ordered. TF 190!

To set the stage for more power in years to come, i am thinking Molnar forged crank and H beam rods should stand up to more than the stock block can handle?

I am helping a friend come up with a 408 stroker motor plan that will make over 500 hp, and if the desire strikes down the road, capable of handling some mild boost, say a max of seven psi or less. My personal thoughts are it would be a good idea ro go forged crank, H beam rods, forged pistons...

On pushrods, calculating any future cuts on the heads, even a .010 cleanup, should be considered. If you have rockers that mount to a bar, then shims can bail you out if you need a little shorter push rod. If not, then aiming for the short side by a touch is a good idea. I like 7/16 dual tapered...

As i read this post, i see the merit in going to the 8mm valve stems. PR, IMHO your own eval of this move is important because you would have control over the whole test, as well as rhe ability to try any tweaks that may give added results. So many questions come to mind . Maybe extra flow from...

If you need clearance can you sand the ends of the spacers? There are ways to effectively do this. I used a steel plate and 500 grit to hand sand an oil pump body down from .004 to .0015 end clearance. It takes a while, and care must be taken to do it evenly, so you need a caliper to keep track...

If you care about getting what you paid for, absolutely! We tweaked my latest build from 950 hp to 982 hp, then found an average gain of 5 hp in the midrange by advancing the cam and giving away 5 hp at 7600 rpm.

In a private discussion with PRH some time ago, Dwayne said dynoing was much better than trying to tune at the track, despite my car being consistant. He was right . Since that conversation long ago, i have dynoed five combinations, and EVERYTIME have found power i would not have otherwise...

It should be interesting. Sad that the owner doesn't want to dyno the new combo. He might ( and in my experiance, will) be leaving some power unfound. I agree with the 900 hp estimate, as i got 926hp out of 550 cubes with 440-1 heads.

Thanks guys

I am about to spend some $$, and am in need of a discount code to help stretch my budget. Thanks!

Indy cnc's them in more than one size. I chose the biggest, of course! Flow numbers go over 400 intake, and the valves have been set at 13 degrees and moved closer to the bore center i believe.

1965 Dodge Dart, 8:50 cert 549 with 572-13 385 cnc heads, 15/1 compression, .868 lift rollercam, Terminater TB fuel injection running methanol. 982 hp at 7600 rpm. 2905 weight with driver, BMP aluminum block, 2 1/8 to 2 1/4step headers, 6200stall torquefilte, 4.56 gears 33,x10.5 tires. Initial...

Or any race motor that can rev enough to use them! I think of the 270 on a 440 as similar ro a 240 on a 383,,,,,,,, or a max wedge head on a 426,,,,,,,,,

I am a rookie (but old!) bigblock racer, but believe in a couple of things. Max cubes, based around a centerweighted crank for long life and to bring rpm down for a long life, many run motor that is a bit easier on valvetrain parts.. Also i run .9 mm rings and methanol, with a primer plus system...

I would love to bend the ear of an engineer that understands crankshaft balance and the value of a fully counter weighted(ccw) crank and how much stress it takes away from the block due to rhe outboard counter weights no longer having to balance out the center cylinders. I noticed in my 2432...

If i understand your post, you leave off idle with nitrous flowing? If so, the cylinder pressure would be through the roof. A 100 hp shot at 2600 rpm adds over 200 ft lbs torque at that rpm, and the horendous cylinder pressure to create it. No wonder there has been mayhem!

Maybe the rpm of 7900 was the real killer, bob weight, timing, etc.