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Well I really messed up. I was re-installing the center console on my 67 barracuda and screwed down the shifter knob too tight. Now it will not loosen and it is down too far to allow for the shifting. The cable just turns and will not break free from the button. Any ideas on how to get...

Is the little light inside the console supposed to be on any time the ignition is on?

I am referring to the light inside the console that lights up the PRN321.

Do anyone know if the light inside the center console is always on with the ignition on or does it only turn on when the headlights are on?

First I want to scream UGH!………. Next I want to thank everyone for the comments so far. I pulled off the console and there is no power coming in to the reverse switch or to the center console light bulb (with lights on). Double checked the test light ground by testing a fuse. This could be a...

My reverse lights on a 67 Barracuda are not working. I checked the obvious with a test light and there is no power going back there while in reverse. Does anybody know which fuse is for the reverse lights on a 67 Barracuda? Picture of my fuse box is below. I think the empty one is for the...

Here are pics of the charger and new battery.

Okay, I finally seem to have a workable solution. First off I picked up my alternator and had it tested (for free) at two other shops. Bottom line is that all three places said the alternator was okay. My conclusion on the alternator is that the car was not being driven at enough high...

So do the stock alternators put out more power at lower RPMs ? Also, do the later model stock alternators put out more power at lower RPMs?

Okay, it been a while but still chasing this issue. Dallas Auto Electric says I need a different type of alternator that puts out more at lower RPMs. According this the shop, the alternator I took to them is a high output alternator but only at higher RPMs. So the recommendation from...

Auto Electric Systems Inc in Dallas just got back with me on the alternator. They said the alternator does not put out enough charge at an idle, but it can get up to 80 amps at high rpm’s. He asked for pictures of the mounting area (I just provided) and he is going to quote me for a new...

Thanks again for all the info. Auto Electric still had not looked at the alternator when I called them this afternoon. They said maybe tomorrow morning. I will go back over these posts carefully this weekend.

Here are a couple picks of the radiator/fan.

The yellow wire from the fan relay goes to an inline fuse then to a red wire that you can see bolted to the positive battery connector. The red wire from the fan relay goes to the starter relay and is the bright red wire that come into the top.

The battery is fairly new - see pick below. Will take it in for a test if we still think it may be an area of concern.

The voltage regulator plug looks like it came as part of the M&H harness.

These is a lot going on at the starter relay - see pic below. The large black wire coming in to the top comes directly from the alternator post.

I dropped the alternator off at Auto Electric Systems in Dallas. They had planned to test while I waited but the person running the tester had left for the day and will get to it tomorrow morning. They asked lots of good questions and seem to have the correct equipment to get a good test...

The headlights are just plain old stock lights. Also, the car came with the electric fan installed when I bought it last summer. The previous owner put the clutch fan in the trunk. I can’t remember if the 67 barracuda had a shroud around the clutch fan - I have no shroud other than the one...

He is a video of the alternator gauge when starting with a 13.11 V charge in the battery on a 42 degree morning. Whoops, that did not work, the video evidently does not upload like pictures. So the needle went slightly towards the D when the car started then quickly moved back to the middle...

Thank you everyone for your replies. I have read them all and working on getting more info. O’Reilly’s and Autozone would only test for good/bad on the alternator so I set-up an appointment tomorrow with an auto electric shop that say they can get actual amps. Also, this may not be useful...

Does anyone know where/if specs are marked on the SPAL fans?

One fan, approximately 14” with 5 blades and a 22” shroud. I have poked around on the internet looking for a match and have not found it yet.

Also the trickle charger has the battery up to 12.94 volts and the charger is still showing red (still charging).

See pic below for the back side of the SPAL data sheet that includes the wiring diagram. I don’t think that the amperage goes through the firewall. Just the orange wire that signals the fan that the ignition is in the on position. I followed each of the wires and it looks to be wired exactly...

It looks to me like the electric radiator fan is wired per the SPAL wiring instructions.

I also did not realize that the factory Alternator gage was measuring amps.

The previous owner gave me the clutch fan that he removed. I would rather stick with the electric fan if possible. The new wiring still goes through the firewall with “factory like” connectors. See pic below.

The wiring harness was replaced a few years ago. I said it is “factory” because my understanding is that the replacement wiring is “factory like”. I bought the car last summer and it has lots of upgrades and I am sketchy about many of the details. The Hanmetek meter I purchased on Amazon...

So with the car shut down and on the trickle charger for 30 min the battery is back up to 12.76. The wire running from the alternator to the starter relay is 4 AWG. I will take the alternator to a local auto store tomorrow to get the amperage.