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for what it's worth, the tires I put on my duster are Hankook Kinergy ST's...not the prettiest tire, but I'm very satisfied with the ride and grip both dry and wet. and the fact they were 60% of the price of BFGoodrich Radial TA's was a major plus as well.

just saw this thread, if they're going clean slate, I'd look at doing a big port/big valve polysphere head, since that's what the lifter angle was designed for....

this pic is with 195/70R14's on the front after my disc brake swap, but still with the small bolt pattern rallyes running 215/70R14 in the back without the adapters and moving the tire out 1"

technically the metric equivalent of a D78-14 is a 185/75R14

fronts on mine are 195/70R14 rears are 225/70R14 on stock rallyes....height wise I think anything more than a 205 looks a little big on the front, and less than 215 looks a little small on the rear. one thing to note, I still have the original SBP rear in mine and am using 1" thick billet...

these wheel covers came on '67's only, I think....they look pretty cool if you happen to stumble across a pair

I like them, too, but I really like the look of magnum 500's on the square A bodies

front disks do that automatically, I recommend doing that first. bolt on adapters can get you by for the rear. that's the order I did....disks first, then new rims/rubber (using a pair of billet bolt on adapters, note it increases track width of the wheel mount face to wheel mount face from...

I really like the vision 148's, which look a little like the '69 recall wheels. Mopar "Recall Wheels" - These New Wheels Look Pretty Close... I'm also partial to the '67 simulated mag wheelcovers (even ran them on my duster when I first got it in the early 90's, now I wish I hadn't sold them)

interior parts are basically common '73-76. I've never seen replacement cardboard headliners like the original, but legendary and others IIRC have plastic ones that are covered with cloth. I used one of those dash caps over my original dash pad, as only the corners were bad. pretty happy with...

granted, it's been 12 years since I did that work, but I remember numerous cases in the initial design of frames and buckets we were given, using the load history they developed over the years on their proving grounds, where predicted life in fillet welds were less than 250 hours and adjacent...

so....where can you find replacement boots on the plastic plate like the ones shown? mine fell apart when I had to replace my master cylinder....EDIT duh, should have read all 3 pages....

yeah, for it to have fatigue strength anywhere near the parent material, the weld itself would have to essentially be ground and polished to the point of being basically indetectable through the paint. a plain old class C unground fully penetrated fillet weld will have a fatigue life of maybe...

fatigue curves of different parent materials and different BSI weld classifications developed by Caterpillar over the last 60 years that I used over the 8+ years I did fatigue analysis on buckets, motograder frames, and other components for them. Tensile strength, with a single static load...

fatigue strength of a weld is orders of magnitude lower than that of the parent material, if I'm using this as a regular driver, I wouldn't chance it given the relatively small cross section of the arm at that point....given the cost to repair the car if a UCA breaks, I would replace them.

do you have the brakes bled? I've had air in the system that caused the front brakes to lock and not release....

my duster with 195/70R14 front and 225/70R14 rear. front height was set with about 5/8" gap between the top of the stock LCA bumpstop and the K frame (cut down the bumpstop to get a touch over an inch of clearance), rear are used 6 leaf HD springs that sat a bit low, so I'm using some YJ lift...

sorry for digging up an almost 1 year old post, but I noticed my 30 year old orange box on my slant six duster leaking goo out the back, and I've had some drivability issues, so I was thinking about getting a new box, was going to get either a Standard Motor LX101 or a Napa Echlin ECH TP51. how...

mine with your old HD 6 leaf springs Brian, tires are 195/70R14 front 225/70R14 rear....I did end up having to play with the rear shackles to get the rear where I wanted it, I used YJ jeep 1" lift shackles from rough country.

yup, they do. looks like you're just about to the bump stops. I set mine at about 5/8" gap to the bump stops, then cut a similar to stock profile on my bumpstops about 1/2" lower to get about 1" clearance to the frame. the fact your tires are 1" taller than mine also explains why the top of...

what size tires in the front? out of curiousity, could you take a shot of the LCA from the front? trying to figure out how you got it that low and still have any suspension travel. I think I'm at 25.5" on my duster with 195/70R14 fronts and I still had to cut my front lower bumpstops to have an...

there might be rebuild kits out there, you may want to disassemble and make sure everything is in decent condition. I had one that the pistons were all corroded and wasn't worth rebuilding. nice thing is this style is common to pretty much every GM from the 70's and 80's and new replacements...

FWIW I've been happy with Wagner ThermoQuiet pads for my daily drivers....

it might be an issue with your speedometer....go on a nice freeway cruise and check your odometer compared to mile markers over say 20-30 miles to make sure the discrepancy between the speedometer and odometer match. I have slightly taller than stock tires on back (225/70R14). my speedometer...

case in point, when I ordered parts for my disc brake swap, the inner wheel seal I ordered was correct for the year of car (even cross references the same as the F body part), BUT the replacement discs that were "correct" and listed for a 1976 duster were actually machined to use a larger...

maybe, if it is a very early build '73 and they were using up '72 parts.... my drum brake '76 used the same UCA and ball joints as the disk brake setup.

small bolt center hole is ~2.31", large bolt ~2.81"

YES, because you have to take the wheel off the car to get at the screws, which screw from the back side of the wheel :thumbsup:

for what it's worth I'm extremely satisfied with my suspension rebuild which included .92" torsion bars and 6 leaf HD rear springs over my stock .85"/5 leaf springs in my slant 6 duster. work well with KYB's,not harsh at all. upped the wheel rate to 150 lb/in in the front/130 rear from the...

the ford axles have the pumpkin offset 2 7/8" (the LH axle is longer than the RH), that's why people advocate shortening the LH side and getting another RH side. you don't NEED to do that, they fit as is. '66-'67 B body are 59.5" wide (similar to the explorer) 68-70 are 60.125" wide (similar...