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It has 3:21 gears . Ok then I will not be concerned Thanks

I have a recent rebuild. The issue is that my dart doesnt coast down hills in drive seems like something is causing drag. If i put it neutral going down a hill the car picks up speed. If i leave it in drive it loses speed. Anyone have any thoughts:wack:

i have a b body 8.75 i'm swaping in my dart . i'm replacing the8.25 in it now. my question is can i use the brake setup off the 8.25 on 8.75? i have drums off the 8.75 but no brake hardware. will i have to use the backing plates off 8.25 ( will they even swap over).

i guess you could say i got options

i wasn't sure . a buddy of mine has a 3000 fairbanks converter i can have , so thought i would ask.

will a 360 weighted converter work behind a castcrank 340?

cool thanks !!

i have a 340 w/cast crank externaly balanced. in order to run aftermarket converters(non weighted) and earlier OE converters (non weighted), all i need to do is purchase a weighted flexplate. correct?:cheers: If so where is the best place to get one?

would it be worth the work to make the swap in a 8.25 with a 2200 stall and a 470-270 cam.

the correct term friction plates are what you are calling clutch plates . i would not dorp tranny just yet ,a band adjustment ( readjustment ) might be worth a try, before you drop tranny again. member fishy68 should chim in on this thread and help with his 2 cents .

yes, did you on the startup have tranny in neutral when filling fluid ? always check fluid level in neutral. if you didn't soak friction plate and band i believe you could have other problems.

did you soak friction plates and band during assembly?

could this driveshaft work in my dart 340/ 727/8.25 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230462326851&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

6,000

i need to get a driveshaft shortened for my dart. i have several to choose from. i have one from a truck, a newport that stepsdown on one end, and one from a dart that stepsdown as well. which one do i get shortened? i'm going to be running a 340 est.350hp, 727 w/2200 stall and an 8.25 with 3.21...

bump

i used the inputshaft, pump housing, reaction shaft, and valvebody off the nonlockup tranny. i'm going to use the 5.0 and see how it works out. if not i'll go to 4.2. the clutch hub has 2 sealing rings. lockup's have 2 on the hub and one on the inputshaft base.

final assembly with friction plates soaked, pump housing torqued down and .064 and .105 no shim between the input and output i have 1/32 converts to .031 clearence i would say i'm good to go.

first i would change your bracket to the one in your first pic of other brackets , and use the long adjustable lever that you have on it now. go from there , you really need a different adjustable lever , the one you have now is for a 2 barrel carb. you could possibly bend the one you have...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300447636245&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

the thrushwashers are all new , fiber washers are all new . the only thing i can think of is that this was a lockup tranny and i swappped in the input shaft for a nonlockup one . the the bushing between the input and the output shafts on the lockup shaft had the tree eared bushing with a shim ...

i put a .064 fiber washer between the front and rear clutch packs then .098(the thickest i have) between the pump and front clutch and still have about a 1/6 th of an inch play. can i use two fiber washers together? if not i need a washer about .133 if there is one that size. how i came up with...

i got the hd kevlar band for my tranny, i got the 5.0 lever for $20 and the 4.2 we're $40, didnt know about the overlap on the 5.0 issue till after i ordered it. the valve body im using has the b&m mods in it, will that make a difference in the overlap issue. the b&m kit has you drill the plate...

i agree

i got the 5.0 lever. the tranny the converter came out of was in good working order, its a 3500 stall converter. so i dont want to trash it.

i got the front clutch apart and saw that it had 9 spring in it . i have another front clutch, would i benefit any by adding 6 more springs. the other ? is on my converter snout has slight grooves can it be machined or something?

what clearences are you talking about? or should i say where?

does anyone know the length of the accumulator blocker rod in this kit?

cool , thanks again fishy!!

has anyone experienced soft seal ring. they are a little thin and flexable.are these correct or not. do they swell when fluid gets on them? also is there a certian way you remove and install the metal sealing rings that have locking tabs on them?