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The transmission pan is the best spot to put it

Just FYI that transmission was built on April 24,1977. I did not find that trans # anywhere either. I have heard there are trans #'s that exist but are not on the list.

Chrysler used what they called a 10,000 day calender for build dates. In 1974 the number on 1/1/1974 was 5620. So you take your number, 5741 and subtract 5620 and you get 121. That means your trans was built on the 121 day of 1974. 5-1-1974. I have a chart that shows what the number is on the...

3681843 is trans I.D. number. trans is a 1974 4661 is build date. 5-1-1974 5741 is the sequence # I believe for future reference go to: http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/transguide.pdf this is a listing of trans I.D. numbers. the other numbers you posted I don't think really mean...

First 2 trans are: Chrysler 1966 383 Dodge 1966 361 & 383 Plymouth 1966 361 & 383 Third trans Barracuda 1968 340 Dart 1968 340

The one in the second link is for a 727.

No. nothing special. Just a standard 904.

The PK4028814 was installed with 318. I believe the 999 was only behind a 360. Here are the 999 numbers according to the Direct Connection Chassis Book. '74-'75=3681844 '76-'77=4028465 '78=4028878 non lock-up 4028815 lock-up 4058111 lock-up '79=4130515 lock-up...

OK. Just take your time and try not to get frustrated.

If I understand your other thread about the valve body you already have the valve body unbolted? If so, pull the valve body straight up untill it clears the caseThe rod attached to the valve body that goes back into the tailshaft should just pull out of the tailshaft. If not you will have to...

$350 does sound high just to look at a trans.Looking at the first photo on your valve body post you will see 2 levers in the bottom part of the pic. 1 in the front 1 in the rear. After you remove the valve body you will see the accumulator piston in between the 2 levers. Was there a spring on...

I don't know if you have had a trans apart before or not, but if it was me I would disassemble the trans and inspect it. If you are not comfortable with the disassembly I would ask here on FABO if anybody knows of a reliable trans shop in your area. Or you can put it in the car and cross your...

You should be fine then.

#2892089 is a 1969 early 1970 trans that was behind a 340. It is a non lockup trans. It should be fine to have rebuilt. What is the trans going to be used for? Street, Street/strip or all out race ?

The other times when the trans was pulled and put back in did it start leaking right away or did you drive it for some time before it started leaking? Also, does it have to be warmed up before it starts Leaking?

65fish, I believe the 65 904 had both a front and rear pump. The reason for the 2 inlet holes in the filter. The rear pump draws fluid through the smaller of the 2 inlet holes. If a newer style filter is used I suppose it could restrict fluid flow to the rear pump. Hope this helps.

The filter on the right with the 2 inlet openings is for a rear pump torqueflight trans. The one on the left should work just fine.

cooling line size is 5/16"

The heavy duty one will be just fine. Thats what I use and I race my car. I have never seen one with the extra bracket like in the photo.

Since the trans has been painted you will probably have to take a wire wheel to the area just above the pan to see the numbers. Those numbers are stamped into the trans housing and are not raised like the other numbers on the trans.

B&M cast aluminum pan and the re-useable gasket from Mopar and haven't leaked a drop. Actually I have re-used the gasket 3 times now with no leaks. The cast aluminum pan tends to stiffen the bottom of the case also.

The number you want to match up with the trans guide link is right above the pan on the drivers side. It usually starts with the letters "PK". The numbers in the pic could be part #'s or maybe casting #'s. As far as the paint removal are you going to have the trans rebuilt? If so, you could...

The 73 is the year and the number of boxes marked indicates the month. I don't know what the 3410432-2 is. Is it stamped above the boxes? Part number perhaps. There should be a number stamped just above the pan rail on the drivers side. This number will indicate the original application of the...

I don't think it would be that big a deal if you didn't use them. They are not that thick to begin with. Its more of a gasket than a shim. I would put it together and as long as you get the proper axle adjustment go with it.

The steel shim/gasket that goes between the backing plate and axle flange is available from Fel-Pro. Part #55032. I ordered mine thru Murrays Auto Parts which is now O'Reilly's. When I took my 8-3/4 apart there were 2 or 3 gaskets on each side. They looked pretty crappy that is why I replaced...

I use a 5/16" 8 Point Socket. Got mine at Sears. I believe Napa has them also.

Yes, just a rubber o-ring. Replace the o-ring and I always put some silicone around the tube before I install it. Haven't had one leak yet doing it this way.

I would just clean the area up with some brake clean and put some silicone over it and let it sit overnight. That is the pivot pin for the rear band apply linkage. The pivot pin has a o-ring on it to seal it, over the years the o-ring gets hard and it leaks. It is often over looked during a...

Here is the link to it: http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/transguide.pdf The following are Non Lock-up A999 #'s (first 7 digits) '74-75 3681844 '76-'77 4028465 '78 4028878

That is a A999 Lock-Up transmission