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Yes to all. The engine has been in the car since 2006. Long story. Put a hole in oil pan this summer. Lost oil pressure. Lost main bearings and rod bearings. Did a rebuild and did not get enough Right Stuff between the block and girdle. Developed an oil leak at the rear between the girdle and...

I thought I would share how I install the CRE Stud Gridle on my 512/440. I use 20 5/16" x 3/4" long bolts and 20 washers to secure the girdle to the block after applying a liberal amount of Black Right Stuff gasket maker. I then torque the 20 bolts to 120 in lbs or 10 ft lbs. After that I...

They are TTI's

F.A.S.T. XFI 2.0 for fuel F.A.S.T. XIM for ignition

They are March serpintine pulleys.

Right now I am using cheap Ebay LS coils. Once I am sure I have ALL the bugs worked out I will Upgrade to better coils. Four coils on each side.

Let me have some time and I will get the measurements. A lot going on right now.

"Home-Brewed" EFI and Coil Near Plug using F.A.S.T XFI 2.0 and F.A.S.T XIM with "Home-Brewed" wiring harness from trunk mounted battery to under dash mounted ECU's and engine bay. If I remember correctly 96 wires.

Yes, "Home-Brewed" fuel injection.. Do a search on my username and "Home-Brewed"

Here are photos of my"Home-Brewed" Engine and Transmission Cradle. As well as the installation sequence of the engine and transmission assembly from the bottom. The body of the car is lifted using the "Home-Brewed" engine crane. Then rolling the cradle, engine and transmission under the car. The...

I ended up going with these: Speed Pro 119M 10 - Speed-Pro Competition Series Main Bearings DODGE Speed Pro 119M 10 Speed-Pro Competition Series Main Bearings | Summit Racing

Would the Speed Pro 3/4 Grove 119M10 Main Bearing Set be a good choice to use?

Yes.... The Oilpan meet the bridge deck down the road from the house. I was logging my FAST EFI when it happened and the oil pressure dropped to Zero when the two meet. Then slowly came back up some as I drove back to the shop. Plus the bearing clearance was on the loose side to begin with.

I am in the process of redoing my 440 based 512 due to a loss of oil pressure. I had to have the main journals turned .010. The block is a 1966 casting. I used Clevite Main bearing set MS-869P on the Original build. This was a Full Grove main bearing set. I am unable to find this bearing set...

2" TTI

That was a Typo. I corrected it. It should be Straight 40W. Not a multi weight...

Pretty Much have the Oil Pressure issue Solved/Fixed. Last Friday I took the car for a short test drive. As I crossed a small bridge on the road the oil pan meet the only high spot on the bridge deck. I got turned around and back to the shop (about a 1/4 mile) with about 4 quarts of oil left...

I finally was able to take my car "Home-Brewed" out for about a 4 mile drive this morning. Runs pretty well. BUT... I was logging the drive by way of the F.A.S.T. XFI and there seems to be an OIL PRESSURE problem. I am using Rotella 15W 40 oil. 8 Quart pan and external pickup standard...

Most everything You see I have made myself or modified to suit my needs. That is how the car got the name "Home-Brewed" from the October 2006 MOPAR Action center fold article. With my last name, the Six Pac hood and the fact I made everything for the EFI before anything was on the market. It is...

Engine Bay of my 1967 Dart GT "Home-Brewed" Got it pretty well finished and cleaned up today in preparation for the St. Louis MOPAR Blast show. Also just installed a set of .92 torsion bars and got the stance leveled out and a little more road clearance and less bounce than the .87 small block bars.

Here is a link to a How to that I did: How To for Heaterbox Motor Modification Herb

That is what I thought, but the older I get, the more brain cells I lose. I had to change the mini starter and when I put the car up on the lift this AM, I saw a drop of water down near the collector flange on the header. The first thing I thought of was a header bolt leaking and could not...

Which exhaust bolts on the Big Block Edelbrock RPM heads go into the water jacket.

Just curious. Do you have the rubber hood seal installed ? With the hood closed, it seals the area between the hood and radiator support. This keeps the engine bay heat from being pulled back over the top of the radiator and back through the radiator. After trying everything I could think of...

Here are a couple of links with a few photos and some info about my "home-Brewed" EFI using a F.A.S.T. XFI 2.0 controller http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=176323&highlight=efi www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=245819&highlight=efi Herb

Here is the BigBlockDart link: http://www.bigblockdart.com/forum/showthread.php?2092-How-To-for-Heaterbox-Motor-Modification Herb

X2 Herb

Tim, Give me a call, i think You have my phone number. I have a spool mount A body K frame with the spool motor mounts that I have already converted to the Direct Connection configuration. Herb

Do you have the factory hood to core support rubber seal in place ? After all of the work I did in this post http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=224853 The Biggest help was to put that seal back in place. It keeps the engine heat from being drawn back over the top of the...

Here's how I did mine. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=224853 Bottom line......... the Biggest help to the cooling was to put the Factory rubber hood seal back in place. It keeps the engine heat from being drawn back over the top of the core support and thru the...