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Last time I worked on my '68 I stoped as soon as those studs started to spin. This is a great thred that I will revisit when I get back ro work on it.

I'm not a fan of red cars ( even though I keep geting them, my '68 was and will be pp1 again... one day ). Every now and then I see a '68 Dart around town that's pp1. For red it's a nice classic / classy color that realy fits on our cars.

sydcuda, that chrome looks GREAT. Every time I look at mine I dred the day I get to that point of the resto.

Cool, I was having a couple cocktails in my garage and for some reason I compaired them to the VIN.... almost craped myself for a little until I checked the buildsheet, then I felt a little better. Just wanted to confirm all was well. Thanks guys

On my '68 fastback what numbers are supost to be stamped on the rad suport, and under the trunk seal on the drivers side? I thought it was the last part of the VIN. Mine isn't, it has the order number from the build sheet. Is this correct or is something fishy ( no pun intended ) with my...

How about '99 Intense blue pearl, or the new Deep water blue, Gun metal grey, plum crazy, a dark forest green metalic, charcoal grey metalic.... how about the new black metalic on the new Dodges.......... are we supost to be helping narrow down your choices... sorry my bad. lol

I've seen a bowling ball thrown up in the air work REAL well.... wait a min. that just works on chevys. lmao

any one have pics from there restoration?

Thanks Adam, I've seen 71SG befor but not the second one. Petty cool info.

I know you guys (and gals) can come through for me on this. This is the easy part, I need pics of the hole in the drivers side fender well under the battery tray. Mine is bigger than it was when it left the factory and I need to know what it looked like so I can repair it. Here's the fun...

might not be alot of help, but the front of my car in my avatar is pp1. It doesn't do the color justice.

it ate the whole roof off the car? lol just kidding, I know the top held moisture under it and it rusted the top to the point that it needs to be replaced.... but the do look cool on most of our cars.

i'll have to read through this when I pull out my mig.

That's what I was getting at. I wasn't sure if it was the same for the Dodge's though. Thank you mrspeeddemon

Aren't the wheel well lips differant between the Darts and the Demons?... like the differance between the Dusters and the Valiants? where they flair out more on the Dusters/ Demons vers the more "flush" edge of the Darts/Valiants?

aren't the Demon wheel lips differant like the Duster where they flair out instead of staying flush? the doors should be the same as a Duster.

I had a '74 Charger when I was a kid and I used a hammer and dolly. I seemed to get the best results by useing them both right off the get go and working the dent from the outter edge to the center going around it in a circle motion. It took along time and I did go slow so that I wouldn't do any...

Sweet! Those will help with mine too when I get to that point. Thanks.

I've got a buddy that is gearing up to restore a 71 Hemi Charger. It's the real deal and all numbers matching. Does anyone know where would be the best place to get photos of cars that would show all the details ( paint dabs, marks etc., etc.) to help with this. I know that the marks will differ...

Looks pretty cool. I would thinks it would be alot cheeper to just send out parts to only be rechromed, I know it costs alot to have pot metal repaired... I'm really going to find out when I get the 340-S done for my hood.

Flatlander, just make sure the clear coat is compatible with you paint. If it isn't you'll have 4X the work to fix it. If you're after clear in a rattle can alot of paint supply places can do that for you or that will have an alternative that works pretty good... The paint goes into a glass jar...

Yeh it's got a bottle ( full too), and wire. I don't know what kind of wire it is or what's in the bottle though. What's the best technique? I know with arch you want the "C" pattern anything special with a MIG? I have an old rusted '97 Ram rear bumper I can practice on so I can a least get a...

I might pick up a fender from a junk yard and use it to practice on. The only thing on my car i'll practice with will be the tires i'll be burning off! LOL

Well tomarrow i'm going to buy a used mig welder for 100.00. My tax return wasn't as good as I thought so I'm going to install the pass floor board myself and save some money. I realy didn't want to because I'm so anal about body work and that means it'll take me longer to do it. I was planning...

I agree with Eric S68, Even if it does expand and contract with a change in temp I'm sure it wont be at the same rate as the sheet metal and then you'll have cracks. Nothing would be worse than going through all this work to end up with a car that looks like crap because something you did...

When the time comes I want to replace mine too.

My '68 has that stuff on it too. I don't know what that stuff is but i'm going to need some also.

I'm stripping the car down myself and going to get it ready for the body shop (as soon as I deside on one). I don't have very much metal that needs to be replaced. I'm picky when it comes to paint jobs so i'm already expecting to pay more, but when i'm ready to do it I'm looking at the 6-10...

I took my lap top with pics of my '68 to Aloha Automotive since she not really mobile and besides i'm not moving my car 4hours just to find out I don't like the shop... they do awsume work, with a hefty price tag. They quoted me 20-25K to do the body work and paint (stock style paint with orange...

This is about 6 months to late. I bought rechromed armrest bases (first set I got was the rear) then I got a set of 4 maroon arm rests. I thought mine were just missing....then after reading this i took a closer look. My '68 didn't come with them. Oh well.