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What he said.

Here is a different set other than TTi http://www.perfweldheaders.com/abody_mopar.html Here is a company that can do much better custom work http://www.stainlessheaders.com/customheaders

Ferrari 458 Italia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrari_458 Super sorry I had that wrong, it doesn't have 13.5 to 1 compression, it has 14 to 1 compression! It's a very amazing motor that is used in the 458 Italia Speciale.

A 458 Italia runs 13.5 to 1 compression and does it just fine on pump gas. Just sayin

I am so very glad I don't have to worry about this stuff. All my motors have roller cams in them.

Swap/replace your pistons.

You can stroke the motor or add a super/turbo charger to it. Either way you'll have to go into the motor to do it (at least the right way anyway). There is also nos you can bolt on but you might blow it that way as well and it doesn't least very long.

It's running the same cam I'm using (well the specs are the same) @.050 231in/239ex duration .535"in/.550"ex lift 110/106 lobe Requires 9.5:1 or better compression 2400-6200rpm Requires a 2500 stall

Its to know how much room you have and the amount of lift you can safely use so the valve doesn't hit the piston. The only mod need to be done to use a roller cam (if you use the Hughes drop in lifters otherwise you'll have to have the lifter bores bushed, which doesn't hurt to have it done) is...

Check piston to valve clearance, but you'll get more out of the motor with a roller cam because the roller cam with bring you into the power curve sooner and keep you there longer then a flat tappet cam. I have a full roller setup in my 340 with flat top pistons, 60779 eddy heads and ~11:1...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FPP-1008/ Its what I have on my 340. Your motor should be closer to 11:1 but you'll have great quench so it will be fine. The cam, is all about what you plan on doing with the car, what tranny are you using, what rear gears are you using and what size tires...

I'm not a hillbilly and I own a Chevelle (Hell it's my very first car, never getting rid of it). I'd still buy edelbrock parts without a second thought. That being said, none of the fore mentioned problems were on my 60779 Heads for my 340

You need to do some port work on the heads just like the eddy heads to make them really flow (FYI Eddy makes the aluminum heads for Mopar).

Before you line hone the block, I'd order up some heavy duty billet main caps for ultimate bottom end strength (this way you only have to line hone it once).

Fluid Dampeners are not designed for cold weather. I have a solid SFI rated one on mine (I'm pretty sure its an ATI unit, but its been so long I've forgotten) so it won't fall apart. I think I've spent way more money on this 400~425 HP 340 street build motor but hopefully I'll never have a problem.

X2 on that! Send those back. For the hell of it, I'd email a letter (not a super pissed off one) with pictures to Edelbrock to inform them of the issue. Buddy of mine ordered a top end kit for a Chevy, something was wrong with the intake and Edelbrock paid shipping both ways and even upgrade the...

Put a solid in it and start destroyin people's dreams, thinking their cars are fast.

Go solid and use roller rockers. Might as well get the most bang for the buck with that hemi

work on the chassis

The best you can get is the W series from Mopar. Otherwise your looking at Eddys, Indys, or Brodix (that last two are quite a bit of $$$$). One thing to think about is if your going to upgrade to the W series later then I would just buy a set of Eddys until I could get my hands on the W series...

On a street motor a 1000 miles will usually do (up to 1500 miles if your using gapless piston rings), so if it is a race motor and see much high Rpms then perhaps 750 miles

Then order a tru trac unit. Works like a standard suregrip unit but stronger and uses a worm gear vs clutch or cone

Screw all that. Just order up a tru trac unit and be done with it. However if your just racin, put a spool in it

If you have stock springs in the heads that could be your problem. More then likely the springs are old, worn out or just don't have enough rate to open and close the valves like they should. Get a set of springs that match the requirements of that cam

Msd e-curve hands down! The thing has a built in rev limiter and everything. Just make sure you use 8.5mm wires or bigger (do they make bigger?) and some good spark plugs. I have msd wires and boush plat 4 plugs. Also you dont need to use a box with this dizzy (I do though).

If you have 1.88 the cost to have them pushed up to 2.02 (if you can do the work yourself) you'll be right about the cost edelbrock rpm head which are alum and a better way to go. But again the best on the market are the w series heads from Mopar.

At the same time factory heads can only do so much. The best heads on the market for sb is w series heads, not even about cheap but when your the best very rarely you are the cheapest

You will see a benefit by going to a roller setup (cam, lifters, and rockers) and by using stainless steel valves.

I have electric fans on all my cars and if you drive a newer car that whats on them so they must work right. That the very least running electric fans will enable you to ditch the stock fan and free up some HP.

I ordered mine from them 3 or 4 days ago and they said it would be a two week wait. There on back order.