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I like eddy but sells those and buy trick flow. Trick flow over eddy any day.

Oh boy here it comes! It's all subjective on what context you're looking at. Really to many variables to just pick one. So in what way are you looking at this? Example in top fuel the Hemi dominates all, but a Hemi will always lose when it comes to fuel economy etc...

Well you could always go for those stage 4(?) heads that convert them from standard to Hemi heads, just sayin. But that's only if you have a bunch of money burning a hole in your pocket.

Go with the Edelbrocks than.

How much are the off set rockers? From what it sounds like the pro comps require it while the Edelbrock one allow you to use you the rockers you already have. Just Sayin.

Stroker kit 408, from Scat. All Forged Parts http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-1-48033/overview/make/dodge Stroker kit 408, from Eagle. All Forged Parts http://www.summitracing.com/parts/esp-20102030/overview/make/chrysler Besides a regrind of the cam you just need a good intake...

Id replace pistons, rings, bearings, oil pump, and have that cam reground. Of ALL the 360 blocks to own/use, the LA 360 roller block you have is the one to use. You can get some power outta that motor and spend less than 4k doing it.

If you unbolt the intake manifold you can very quickly tell if its a roller block or not. If you're not sure just take a picture of the lifter valley and post it up.

Tear it down completely first then make a decision. If its just a simple bore, pistons, and rings it doesn't cost that much. What year is the 360 block? is it a roller block? if so, rebuild that sucker!!!

Call MRL.

Might as well use your 440.

Here you go http://www.crank-scrapers.com/Chrysler_B_RB.html

Adjustable rockers.

This thread is almost 2 years old.

I think they are worth it. Rollers bring you into the power curve sooner and keep you there longer than a flat tappet cam.

The bronze gear really aren't intended for street use (but people do, their choice) because they wear out very quickly and as they wear, you get bronze metal shaving moving around in your motor switch is very bad for business. However if its a drag motor go for it, why? Because you're constantly...

Use a harden shaft, cheap insurance

I don't think an a body can handle that. Might need a 3/4 or 1 ton pick up to move that around.

Naturally aspirated=closed Force induction=open (more room to for boost)

You can always contact these guys http://roadstershop.com/ They will have you a full frame with independent rear suspension it you want them to (think of all the fun you can have with on of those).

quench is where its at. What pistons are you using? above deck, below deck?

There we go!

A member here makes a different style k frame but for the life of me I can't think of the members name.

It happens lol.

1/2 inch line sounds like enough to me.

I'd go with an aftermarket block, but that's just me.

Which ever one you pick, make sure it's an SFI rated part

I wouldn't not on a street car. Something goes wrong engine over heats.

Ouch! Hope she doesn't see this thread, pretty sure you might wake from a coma. Anyway using 11.75 rotors will be a big help, but there are other options like a 14.25" rotor with viper calipers but will require 18" wheels at the min. That will give you all kinds of stopping power.

Mobil1 full syn is what all my car run/use. Don't forget to add the zinc if you are not using a full roller setup.