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Shiny magazines work for turntables.

Hope you get it back on the road soon. I wonder if Raybestos "Pro-Grade" is any better.

Based on math and science. Used all the time on aircraft. They don't weigh the plane every flight, but they need to know the weight and CG every time they takeoff. Do you want to know the benefits before you do the work? I can walk you through it if you want.

Moving the battery has about twice the weight balance change as moving the motor back 6 inches. Try this out: racing aspirations » Weight Distribution Calculator

Doesn't the driveshaft rotate counter-clockwise, thus rotating the differential in that direction, lifting the passenger tire off the ground, and pushing the driver's tire against it?

Turn up the left torsion bar.

I've always hit the outer lip inward at four places with a washer inside, then pressed them out from the other side with a vise, whatever socket fits for a receptacle, and another socket to push with. This process relieves a lot of the interference fit, and surface area touching the arm. Since...

I already fixed it. Do you know how anti-dive works? I've never been able to figure that one out, how the pivot angle of the upper control arm reduces dive, and how the ball joint moving back under jounce doesn't cause strange handling behavior. Why does Hotchkis think our cars have too much...

No. With the tire pointing forward, as I jack the wheel up, you could see it turn outward, so as it moved strait up and down, it would point left and right by 1/4" for every inch up and down it would move.

Eestatic, how's the car?

The front drops when you hit the brakes, so 1" drop in front, with 1/4" toe out each wheel, gives 1/2" toe out per inch of travel. I've gotten the car up to 156mph at Pacific Raceway's road course, so I'm hitting the brakes pretty hard before that U-turn. I had to be done braking by the time I...

I see now. Thanks. If one is serious about this, they'll be zeroing their bump steer anyways. My last racecar had 1/4" of toe change per inch of travel each side. The car actually handled fine until I hit the brakes hard into turns. Do you know how to zero it out?

How does that affect caster? I understand the bump steer, but the upper control arm doesn't affect that. Could you elaborate? Are you referring to the effect of the anti dive angle of the upper control arm as it compresses?

What are you calling the steering arm? Are you referring to what the outer tie rod end bolts to, which is part of the lower ball joint on our cars, the pitman arm, or something else?

If the upper and lower control arm bushings are not preloaded at ride height, which sounds like you have covered, and your alignment is roughed in, I would say your toe is way off, and when you drive it, the tire scrubbing is pulling hard on the tires, either in or out, and it's jacking the...

I had the whole thing break loose on me. Some A-Bodies had a C shaped piece of metal welded around it for reinforcement. It doesn't look like the front end of the tube gets welded.

Raise the front left, or lower the front right.

Nylon bolts? It just looks like glue was injected through those holes. You'll just be collapsing the column what? 4"? No big deal. The entire dash will be shoved into the back seat if that little will make a difference.

Have someone wiggle the steering wheel back and forth and see what's moving and what's not.

Many people think lowering the car makes it handle better. I like the lowered look, but the new angles the control arms are sitting at causes the front roll center to drop, which makes the car roll over easier, which really sux as far as handling goes. Many people like Bilstein shocks, and...

Having the tie rods level sounds very simplistic. A line drawn through the upper control arm, lower control arm, and tie rod end pivot points must intersect at the same point, and to do so, the tie rod can't be parallel to the lower control arm. Impossible to actually do on a vehicle, but the...

Aren't the drop spindles based on the later R and M-Body spindles, which are taller than the earlier B-Body, and A-Body spindles? The upper ball joint location is higher, so it does change your geometry. "Designed by Magnum Force and based on the big bearing, big ball joint 1973 and up...

I think mcnoople noticed he repeated someone's answer, so he edited his to say ignore it.

Look at the hex on the rear of the torsion bars to see if they are turning, causing the car to keep dropping. Bouncing the front does nothing. When the tires go up and down, they scrub. They must be on functioning skid plates or the car must be moved around or driven to settle the things into...

If it pushes, your front end is probably too stiff. You said you have the biggest torsion bars. Are those 1.24"? Stiffer isn't always better. Different problem, but we had to lighten the leafs in our road race car, and it had stock leaf springs.

Numbers don't look good to me. I'd say 1/4° to 1/2° negative camber, and 1/16" toe in. Not sure about measuring degrees for toe. It's not the usual way. 4° positive caster looks good.

Set the height where you want it. Get a carpenter's square next to the wheel and measure from it to the wheel at the top and the bottom. The tire will have zero camber when the two measurements are the same. Turn the front eccentric to move the front of the upper control arm out. If you run out...

Convertibles had a thick plate running the length of the rocker panels. Was it cut through when the rear section was cut off? This made the rockers rock solid, and the torque boxes connected the front and rear frames to it.

Autoxcuda, do you think a rear swaybar is needed? Our car, with stock springs (4 leaf) are too stiff, and we were getting oversteer, especially when letting off the gas, so if you started to go too fast around a corner, you couldn't let off the gas or you'd end up spinning out. I took one and...

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