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This one's been idle for awhile but I'm bringing it back up. I'm having the same problem. However, I have yet to get a chance to check all of the afore mentioned common leak areas. I'll get to that soon but wanted to bring up another possibility... a buddy of mine told me he's seen the same...

Without going to a bigger joint, what can I do to increase the strength of my 7260? My current joint has a grease fitting which I've heard reduces strength b/c the joint is hollow. I'm using these straps: http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/ujstrapandbo.html What's the best 7260 joint and...

Thanks stroker. I'll give it a shot.

Just bought a rebuilt powr-lok. My axles will not slide in all the way b/c the inner and outer splines on the powr-lok are not exactly lined up. They're not off by much but enough to prevent the axles from sliding in the remaining 1/2". Is there an easy way rotate the outer spline and slide...

Found it! When I had the trans rebuilt I asked the guy to put a shift kit in. He used a B&M. The kit provides a 1/4" check ball to be placed inside the spring of the 1-2 shift control valve but states for off road use only (??). He put the ball in the 1-2 shift valve. The 1-2 valve seems to...

I talked to a tranny guy. He suggested putting it i reverse at 15 mph to free the governor if it was stuck. I did this 4 times w/ no luck. I have to drop the trans to get to the governor due to the tight fit in my car so I decided to pull the valve body out before dropping the trans. It...

I don't think I can get to the governor w/o dropping the trans (too tight to the floor to slide the tailshaft housing off). I figured it would be easier to check the valve body 1st instead of dropping the trans to check the governor. Besides, I talked to someone at a transmission shop that...

I figured that was the case (can manually shift an automatic valve body) but I guess my confusion is why folks swap to a manual valve body. I assumed there must be some issue w/ shifting an automatic body if people want to switch to a manual. What's wrong w/ it? I have an automatic valve...

I like the idea of a manual valve body put I don't want it all the time. Is an automatic/manual valve body a good option? Does anyone use one? What's a good one to get? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TCI-122400/

Something else I should probably mention... the trans sat on the garage floor for 4 years w/ no fluid after it was rebuilt. Could this have anything to do w/ it?

Going over the list that 72plymouth posted... -fluid level... good -throttle linkage adjustment... I assume the kickdown, tried in mulitply spots -line pressure too high or low... I assume this is controlled by the kickdown and again I've tried multilple adjustments -oil pump malfuction...

Ok, fluid level is good. I adjusted the kickdown several times. I tried setting it so that the level reaches its full travel when the throttle is wide open. I then gave it a little more slack then that. 3rd, I unhooked it completely so the level never moved. The trans still will not shift...

Thanks 72. I talked to several folks that suggested low fluid. Hopefully that's it. This was the 1st time that I drove the car so maybe it took more fluid once it was in gear? I'll check that 1st.

No room for the factory style linkage. I bought one and tried to fit it up but my motor is too close to the firewall. I've got a '74 Scamp. I'll play w/ the cable and see if that gets it.

There's no room for it.

The kickdown probably was too tight... it reached it's full travel before WOT. Also, due to the shifter linkage on the Lokar shifter I'm using, the kickdown lever can't return all the way. It releases far enough so that there's not any tension on the internal spring but it could travel farther...

I'll admit to not knowing much about autos and can use any advice you guys have. I just drove my car for the 1st time since I began the big block swap 5 years ago. Everything was great except the trans would not shift. I had it in drive and wound it up well past where I thought it should...

Perfect. 7260 it is. Thanks

I need to order a drive shaft and u-joints. How can I tell which u-joint I need for the axle yoke? Are the diameters different? The hole in my yoke measures a hair over 1".

I just went through this same process last week. I had the pan full (took about 3.5 quarts) and started it in neutral. It took the fluid pretty quick so be ready to add some. I ended up adding another 4 quarts while it was running.

Thanks. I got the current o-ring I'm using from napa. The ID was right on but I think I need a thinker o-ring. I'll keep looking. The thing I like about a deep pan is I would think you can run the level a little lower from the gasket and reduce the chance of a gasket/dipstick leak (as long...

I've got a factory pan (about 1 1/2" deep). There's fluid leaking from the dipstick tube. I figured it would leak b/c the OD of the o-ring I used wasn't much bigger then the OD of the tube. Does anyone have a P/N for the correct seal? I'd also like to add a deeper pan. Where can I find...

How bout this... I'll slide a steel bar through the eyelets of the yoke and set a jackstand under each end of the bar. How's that for rigging something up?

I don't have one.

I'll start it in neutral. But I will take your advice and put a safety wire on it. Thanks

So, I'll have the trans in neutral, never shift gears, add fluid as it needs and the trans and converter will be fine for the 30 mins that I run the motor?

10-4, will do. Thanks

I started the motor last weekend w/ 3.5 qts of trans fluid in the pan (none in the converter). I ran it for 2 mins at 2000 rpm. The trans took about a quart so it now has 4.5 or so. I want to run the motor for 30 mins tonight to break it in. Will the trans be ok if I leave it in park and add...

My dipstick tube has a grove in it. I assume this is for some sort of o-ring seal. Is is a standard round o-ring or more like a square seal? Where can I find one?