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Hi, I used the Summit high torque mini starter on my 360. It has doug's headers, which were a bit of a pain to install (interfered with borgeson power steering box, steering column and torsion bar) but the summit mini starter was never an issue. It fits perfect without interfering with anything...

if you plan on driving the car on the street (part throttle cruising) keep it on ported (right side), if all you are doing is full-throttle pulls (track) you can play with manifold. Only reason to think about using manifold side for a street driven car is when you have a big cam with huge overlap.

Yep sounds like you have it 180 degrees out, like 67dart273 stated.

Did you have the same problem before you put in the new electronic ignition you mentioned? Do you have a fuel pressure gauge installed? You might be seeing a huge fuel pressure drop at high rpm causing the bowls to be drained due to the reduced flow. Have you checked your carb's float levels to...

Oldmanrick is right. At high rpm or full throttle run there is no vacuum and therefor no added advance from the vacuum canister. It doesn't matter whether it is plugged into the ported or full manifold side of the carb. The only difference between the two is that the manifold side adds timing...

was it a perfect bolt-on or were there any mods required?

not trying to hijack here, but I am also looking for one to put on a '74 360. Pretty sure that is the same starter they would use on the 318 correct? Do any of the starters need to be modified at all or do they fit right into an LA engine? How about wiring, is it the same as the stock starter?

Perfect, sounds like you found your problem. Now let the burnout fun begin LOL

must have asked that exactly at the time you were posting the answer LOL sorry about that.

Great work, so what timing numbers are you running now that you have the new advance plate in place?

ah, that makes sense. Thanks for clarifying. Sorry for the confusion.

LOL, that's how we learn right... I would definitely start at square one like 67dart273 suggested, make sure the dampener marks are correct and that it show 0 for 0 at TDC, use a piston stop to be absolutely sure. Buy some timing tape to degree the dampener, always great for future reference...

I would assume you would be able to measure the length of the slot that you currently have and figure out how much would need to be blocked off to get the number of mechanical advance that you would like. Based on the numbers you gave, it seems that the slots currently allow 42.5 degrees of...

good idea to go back to square one, but regardless of the damper position, it seems like you have way too much advance in the mechanical plates, no way to fix the issue without limiting the advance. JMO

so the mechanical advance plate is setup to put 30 degrees of mechanical timing in. You'll have to limit them (weld in some stops) especially since you have made them even longer. Currently you have 12.5 initial and 55 degrees total (initial + mechanical no vacuum advance) so that means the...

It seems like you have way too much mechanical advance coming in, that's why it is pinging under load. 12.5 degrees initial is pretty mild, my 360 likes 18 degrees, so for your engine you are probably right on the money for the initial. The key is now to limit the mechanical advance so that...

so at the highest vacuum reading, how much initial timing does it show (at idle)? Now bring the rpms up until all the mechanical is in (you mentioned at 2200 rpm) to make sure just bring it up to 3000 rpm, now check with your timing gun, how much timing does it have now? This should probably not...

You also mention you "changed the spring and opened the slots to bring the timing in later", opening the mechanical weight slots only allows the advance so swing out further and therefor adding even more timing. I would try to set the initial timing to where the manifold vacuum is the highest...

Not sure what you mean with "the slotted bar is marked 15" but you mention at idle the timing light says you have 32 degrees advance. I assume this is at around 700 - 800 rpm correct? That would be way too much initial advance and it would surprise me if you didn't have any problems getting the...

what is the initial timing set at (timing at idle)? What is your idle rpm set at? How much mechanical advance do you have it set at and at what RPM, are you running vacuum advance or is this blocked off? The only reason why it would be pinging under load (if the initial and mechanical advance...

I'm not sure if a slant six works the same as my 360 but one thing to check is if you have power at the ballast resistor. I'm sure 67Dart273 will chime in here, his advice is always right on the money :) You should have around 12 volt at the "run" side of the ballast resistor (usually where...

Thanks AbodyJoe, I ordered the kit yesterday so hope to install it soon :) I found that article in some other post on fabo a few months ago and it is already printed and sitting in a binder in the garage LOL. Great article. I spoke to a rep at summit and they assured me it had the advance...

Bump, is there anyone running one of these?

Does anyone know if the Mopar performance distributor has the adjustable mechanical advance weights (so you can limit it when you are running more than 18 initial) here is a link to the unit at summit. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-3690426/

Thanks slantsixdan, what type of crimping tool would do the trick, something I could get at Canadian tire? And yes, i was talking about the three rectangular housings (8-10 terminals) that plug onto the bulkhead disconnect. I'll look into the evans wiring kit. But if I wanted to just change the...

Thanks, that makes sense. I'm going through the wiring now (unwrapped alot of taped wires) and it seems the PO did some strange fixes (if you can call it that) anyway I'll have to make some repairs here and there. I ended up at the bulkhead connectors and some of the wires are basically...

The condenser is connected (tied in) to the green wire that comes from the terminal plug which is also connected to the green wire with red tracer (this wire goes to the ignition module and this wire is not hooked to anything with the 4 pin ignition module). the top of the plug has the brown...

thanks for the wiring diagram 67Dart273 that's very helpful.

the condenser is wired into the ballast resistor (same terminal as the green wire with red tracer) the top terminal post (on same side of the ballast resistor) has the brown wire connected to it. (The green wire with red tracer is the wire that now doesn't get used with the 4 pin ignition box...

I'm trying to figure out if my ignition system is hooked up properly. - Engine 360 (1974) - 727 torqueflite (67 barracuda) - orange ignition box module (4 pin) - accel performance coil (chrome) - electronic ignition distributor (with vacuum can) the thing that confuses me is that it has a 4...