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i dont think there is 1000 slant fans lol

Im assuming he is building a runner vs stock. .002-.003 is good for most street/strip stuff. And OP, is this out of the box or as machined by the machine shop? did you tell them .002-.003? if not im not surprised thats what you got...

to break in you need to load the engine. I like getting to bottom of third and then pull up to 60 then back down and then up again so it really has to grunt. Do this 5 or 6 times and the rings are ready to go.

So when you rebuilt it did you just baby it around or just you load it down to seat the rings? it would smoke if the rings didn't seat due to improper break in

you are correct that valve operation (timing, lift and duration, etc) have no effect on STATIC compression, this is because it does not take into account above, its simply the compression given by stroke/bore/head gasket/etc. When you get into DYNAMIC compression the game changes. You are...

then explain dynamic compression...

ok cool guy :bootysha:

Im not sure how i missed this thread as i was the one you called! Im glad to see you guys are getting "motivated" again! I ordered a cam back in 09 for my slant motor from John, we talked a couple of times before we decided on specs. cam came with springs, 140 shipped as i recall. And what got...

you need to pull the rockers off the shafts and inspect the bearings, both banks

THIS, i will be using these on my next build

the motor wouldnt necessarily vibrate in neutral with a good cam and no load... You need to have the bottom end balanced properly ON HIS DIME...

yea they called me since i posted they went under, after 4 years of never picking up the phone i gave up on them...

i know when i moved to AZ my plugs went from tan to orange, something in the fuel

For your machine work i recommend chucks speed center of I-17 and indian school 602-266-5101 what do you want? need a shop to R&R for you?

so you think when they ran stock bore gaskets at 3.63 (I think that was stock bore) they had these failures?

the gasket is larger than the bore and larger than the chamber. As i said in the thread when we were building our 273 we wanted a stock bore gasket but to none avail. what this means is ALL of your gasket is squished, the reason the big bore gasets suck is you have this nice sharp edge to get...

well you can forget all the plugs on the outside of the block or you would have a big puddle

the diagnosis gauge from the parts store is a much better gauge, it is more accurate and follows each dip and flick, where as the autometer gauge is just smooth, and about 3-5" low

and FYI its 67 and earlier and 68 and newer, on everything. Everything from a slant to a hemi use the same size so long as its pre/post the split

high stall is a relative term... alot of the new converters act stock in most cases. I dont remember if he said what converter was in it or not

ok well i have been tuning my slant for best possible mpg for my driving and geo location (altitude and DA). Here are some things to check for Ignition Coil getting a high voltage coil that requires a ballast bypass. Upgrade the stock spark box for a chrome/FBO/Rev-n-ator box Plug...

Op, call a cam grinder and have them grind a cam for your build, why run a roller with old tech on it? just get a custom ground roller and it will outperform like you cant imagine...

UH NO... you can run a flat cam without wearing out the lobes even on a big cam The reason for a roller is the ability to handle more spring pressure on big cams, while having better ramps lastly a flat tappet cam has a bevel ground into it so the lifter will spin, using a roller lifter will...

dont change the carb, just tune it, pull jet out to lean it, open air bleeds for proper transfer AFR, Readjust idle mix after bleeds.

i think there is a tool like the on car spring compressor, but it has a gauge on it, could be wrong though.

the likely hood of having bad seals on a 99 (unless its a TSB) are pretty low. what issues are you having?

das pocket

I wonder where people got the idea WD40 was a penetrating oil... PB blaster, keep it wet for a week. then start with the head and impact, first step is always tighten!

thats what i was thinking yea sounds like the bottom end is coming loose... hate that sound

whats it matter? they are a good plug for a mild to hottish build. with the extended tip you get a better flame front due to the tip being into the chamebr farther, a compression bump, and a NGK. try it and it you like it great, if not go back to whatever the norm is, but im willing to bet it...