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whats your dynamic compression and cylinder pressure? I have a 10:1 motor with about a 7.9 dynamic comp and she does just fine at 100oct (50/50 mix of pump 91 and 110 leaded)

Its fiat, they were supposed to have shut MP down by now :wack:

yes for a time they were making the hemi blocks (no knowledge in SB). They stopped making blocks and then world starting making them for mopar again, now world dosn't seem to be putting them out anymore... I figured it was a fiat thing

well as far as i know they (mopar/world) are not making the Gen II's either.

No offense but learn to weld or take it to someone. Your wasting your time right now. If you cant weld and you can tell its not right, its not going to hold. As stated get scrap, clean it to bare steel, then weld. set the pressure to 30psi flowing (left gauge) and start practicing. Tony when...

you have broke in the cam now you need to seat the rings. I like to go just fast enough it wont lung in third and then pull up to about 60 then back again, do that three or 4 times and your ready for the track

almost like the old bars they had in the AFX cars

helmet and driveshaft loop at 13.99 roll bar at 11.50 studs must stick out 1.5 times past the lugnut hub caps must be bolted on Over flow can for radiator less than 12" rubber fuel hose they wont let those glass fuel filters pass anymore battery mechanically held down, no bungy cord that...

just use a loop around the LCA (outside of shock between spindle) and around the rear end. If your really worried cross front and rears.

i have mine balanced at 15lbs also, they like to jack them up to 30 or 35lbs

rule of thumb is the rim needs to be +/- 1" of tread width.

i lost a cable to header heat and replaced it but added that heat shield tubing and has never been an issue

Only ratchet shifter to use is the Hurst Pro-Matic, Lift from N and push forward into reverse, and just pull back and down from R to N. I dont like the gate style so i have no preference there.

I have a hard some getting thoughts onto paper, always have. Basically the smaller cam would probably be the best "all around" cam because it would come in sooner, and not go past intended usage BUT if your rpm range was high enough and you are running a high stall (4500, relative I know)...

thats why i posted the converter stall, i was just going off the math forgetting the converter slip i got those using the wallace calculator

auto and a 4500 would be the stall

So i have been thinking about duration in a slightly different way. I know you usually only want the minimum amount of duration to achieve a rpm shift or redline. Now if your shifting at say 6500, when you shift it drops to: 1-2 shift 3850rpms 2-3 shift 4480rpms Lets use a 500RB, 4.15 stroke...

Wow this is great stuff guys! I need to get a 2014 book and REALLY read the rules. P.S. how much did the NHRA letter cost you?

totally agree... i mean these new simpson 3" belts are going to be a hell of a lot better then the belts from 68, nevermind the materials but just the latch!

thats what i thought... i think the manufacture but CB or tony would know better.

So i would really like to update some stuff in my 68 for obvious reasons. Being i dont have a bar, and wont be going fast enough for one i want to do the 3" simpson lap belts. that said im not going fast enough for those either, now the question. Can you run an out of date SFI part even if its...

lol thats not happening, at least for the 68

wow! i would think the curve would try to pop out of the seal

no he had full engagment, just lots of hard passes. you know him i just cant think of the screen name!

and i have a set in my car as well, wasn't it petty in his 66 that rounded those axles maybe last year?

As i recall one of our guys rolled over a set of their axles and went strange but i could be wrong, might have been Dr. diff axles.

really? so you didn't screw it to the pinch weld and it stayed in the gasket?

So i want to go to lexan front and rear "glass", thinking .120 on the front and maybe .080 on the rear. Anyways i would like to still be able to use the stock stainless around the windows. Anybody do that or have a way how? 68 SS Slant dart

well what axles we talking about? 7.25 axles behind a slant of D60 35spliners behind a hemi?

your problem is your comparing a ford with even springs to a mopar with uneven springs. Fords have an even front and rear segment whereas the mop has a shorter front segment. What this does is cause the rear of the car to lift, unlike your ford that is squating and rolling, very different...