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Your tool needs to be inline with the spring so that you have leverage. I believe I used regular vice grips on the tab where yours is and pulled following the coil around then tapped it on the pin with a hammer. There is supposed to be a cap that taps onto the pin and grips it once it's home.

Being in a confined space, I would remove it.

I don't know the condition of your car, but I would check that side hood for a structural weakness.

If that's the case, I would bolt it. That is a lot of air being pushed in with nowhere to go. IF you had a hole in the hood (somewhere for the air to go) it might stay using adhesive, but I still wouldn't trust it.

Odd on the left, even on the right.

Just be cautious about breathing some of that stuff. Have you tried mineral spirits? Maybe a rag and soak it pretty good and wipe on it, I can picture exactly what you're trying to get off.

That's what I did as well, a good NON-hardening type caulk should work fine.

A good body shop supplier should have it.

When I cleaned mine up I used these, it's what I had on hand that would work, lol. These here dohickies. Sandpaper rolls for head porting.

I believe those are the end pieces for the bumper filler. Maybe?

SEM Products 69508 Rust-Mort Rust Preventive Coating Black 1 pt. Each | eBay

And I just bookmarked it.

Yeah, it sure does.

How would he know where to send them? Send him a PM(conversation) requesting a sticker and where to send it.

No. If you look, the portion of the bolt under the head is square to match the hole you're filling. Hold it with your finger and tighten the nut.

That is the post that the nut winds onto.

They should look something like these.

Sort of, there is a nut shape to them if OEM. Try scraping them off a bit.

Perseverance can sometimes pay off. You have learned some things not to do. IF it were me, and it will be, in the not too distant future, I would continue the DIY path. But then again, I am a very stubborn person, lol. Take a step back, ask questions, watch some vids on the process and then...

Exchanging or filling which ever he chooses to do. I got the medium size tank, and I have done a fair amount of welding with it so far. When I need a refill, I may upgrade to the large tank, just have to pay the difference in tank cost between the one I have and the cost of the new.

I think I paid 129 for a medium tank that was full upon pick up. To exchange it is in the neighborhood of 25 to 30 bucks. Never have to worry about the tank becoming out of date, if it does, they just pull it from rotation have it tested and certifies and put back into circulation, or retire...

It was. To buy it all new it would have cost me, meh, 700 bucks maybe.

Yes.

You might check Craigs List. I found this brand new in the box for 250.00. Pretty good welder for what I do. I got everything you see for that price, it even included a brand new in the box gas kit, and 2 rolls of wire and the self darkening helmet. I went and bought a bottle of gas, now...

If it's what your budget allows, go for it. I used one for multiple tasks on my car and the wifes car. The flux core wire is messy, and will require a little extra time doing spatter cleanup, but it does work. When I could afford it I upgraded to a mig. Much much better.

Make a cardboard template of the right side, cut it out and reverse it and see how it matches the left (new fender).

What does the fender tag say?

That's a pretty good idea. I'll have to 'try' and remember that.

Yeah boy, my hands were all nicked up when I took my dash pad off to refurb it, then I had to put it back on!

A new blade also helps!