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Good info here.

I got mine in the mail today. Hoping to have the 273 back together in a couple of weeks.

Link?

Well I couldn't resist and ordered one for my 65. Between this and the Toyota one wire alternator I should eliminate half of the wiring in my engine bay. :D

Interesting Dan. Thanks

Good to know TMM. Thanks for keeping us informed.

You read my mind Mike. I am planning on running NGK GR4GP, but I would like input too.

Thanks guys. I knew there was an explanation.

A friend of mine is having electrical issues on his dart that has been off the road for at least 10 years. We are wondering if it's normal for the front park lights to go out when the head lights are turned on? I have never owned one and I am curious too.

Napa Gold. Can't go wrong.

In my experience when a voltage regulator goes bad you will see you lights get really bright and volt meter spike. I have had this happen on a couple of cars, but will not affect driving, but can cook wiring and fry a good battery.

Before you put it back together I would spray some electrical contact cleaner in the connections. It should also help resist corrosion too.

Check to see if you can feel or hear the relay engage when the key is turned. I would check the ground really good on the relay. Check for voltage coming in from you ignition switch. Start with the basics first.

I removed mine and have a modern stereo and have no noise issues.

I have had the same problem in the past and it was a bad voltage regulator. Like said earlier, double check for a good ground on the regulator also.

I ran those on my dart with straight boots on my plugs with the exact same headers and I fried my plug wires within a month. They are not good for laying them directly on the header pipe. I bought a set of 90 degree cut to fit wires from summit and have had no problems. Just letting you know.

Good point. I am currently running a chrome box with no issues, but I have a couple of spare boxes and will throw one in the car.

I justed used some dielectric grease. Worked great.

Your bulk head connectors are right behind you drivers side valve cover on the fire wall. There are three plugs there that plug into the fire wall. Pull them out carefully to avoid breaking the clips and check them for corrosion. I would also look at the rotor. I have actually had one break...

I would start with the basic stuff. Is it getting fire? Put a timing light on it and look for the strobe. Has it jumped time? Install a piston stop and turn the motor over by hand and look at your timing mark on the damper. I would start there. Got to be spark or timing if you are...

Hope these help. I just used the factory wiring. Sorry about the black engine bay. LOL

I am also running an accel dist and chrome box with no issues. I will take some pics of my wire routing if that will help.

I am running an Accel with an external coil also and I like it.

I have no idea. I am sorry, but that is a little before my time. LOL But it sounds like a cool project.

Thanks for your input. I was an Aviation Electrician in the Navy and wiring isn't an issue.

Sorry Rumble but it is already wired up in the car. I am just waiting for the indicator lights and the 63" speedo cable to get there that will work from the 904 to my new speedo. I will get a picture once it is buttoned up.

http://www.equus.com/products.php?category_id=100 They sell them at Checker for quite a bit cheaper.

Well I'm almost done with my gauge cluster. I was going to order a redline gauge insert, but $100 is kind of steep for a piece of plastic, so I made my own from a piece of scrap stainless sheet metal. I cut up my original cluster and bolted the sheet metal to the back of it. The gauges are...

thanks fishy

I am running an accel dist. I have not heard a ping yet. And I am not kidding that my total timing at 3000 rpm with the vacuum advance hooked up is around 52*. I was told by a couple of guys on here that it is fine. Should I plug my vacuum advance and just run it mechanical at around 34*?