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It should honk until you attach the spring over the Nut & bolt (tape on the spring will help hold the spring in place) then place the cap over the spring and push down over the collar with the wire tab (cap has 3 or 4 indentations and collar with tab has matching holes) then gently insert cap...

The device is expensive but does work well and generated very little heat. They do buy old voltage limiters (for the metal containers) for $5.00 apiece. That can bring the price down if you have salvaged a few.

On my 65 Barracuda the ammeter also toggled from charge to discharge (making my headlights dim then get bright) when I turned on the head lamps, which is widely attributed to the mechanical (relay) voltage regulator in the charging system. I upgraded to a dual field 60 amp alternator which uses...

"Also the signal switch in the Column is toast. Could the switch be related to brake lights?" Absolutely yes, the turn signal switch interrupts the break light circuit to put the blinker signal to break lamps.

I would also invest in an inexpensive dwell meter to verify proper feeler gauge setting on the points.

Your right Doc (Navy Corpsman?) when I bench tested the device I did not fuse the input. I repaired the trace, and then burnt it again. I was just trying to warn others to be sure to check out the device before installing it. Good tip about epoxy to the regulator legs though.

The down side of the 5 Volt regulator is the lack of short circuit protection. When installing the regulator you must heat sink it to the metal Voltage Limiter case and it is easy to inadvertently ground the 12 volts input or 5 volt output leg. If this happens a instrument panel circuit board...

I just purchased one after reading the same article 360scamp, it arrived yesterday. I got tired of trying to get the Radio Shack circuit to insert into the can with out shorting out the 5V regulator. The article says it protects the instrument cluster better than the regulator alone and it also...

The best way to tell if your really charging the battery is to place a voltmeter across the battery terminals and watch the reading as you increase the engines RPMs. The voltage should rise a volt or two as you open up the throttle.

Adam, I don't understand your question but I suspect it is referring to an alternator with a single field and an alternator with a dual field connection. The pulley shouldn’t really make any difference.:scratch:

The little wheel on the switch is finding a ground from the steering wheel when its being turned to just the right position. If I had to guess the wheel rim might be touching the steering column when it is being turned but it hard to diagnose a problem like that without being there.

I agree with dgc333 they are easily rebuilt, if the motor is otherwise healthy. One other thing to be aware of is the positive cable can corrode inside the jacket but it is usually an issue with old cars where the owner has used one of those clamp on terminal instead of replacing a badly...

I have normally found this symptom was from a faulty starter solenoid. The older starter original style starter has a plunger and two round contacts and usually the contacts burn up (kind of crescent shaped), but I could put my remote starter switch to the solenoid and get it to start. I do not...

It really isn’t that bad, get an inexpensive meter from radio shack and play around with it a little. Use the Ohms scale to measure a few wires to ground (Battery disconnected). Then put it on DC Volts scale and look at Battery Voltage (Battery reconnected). Once you feel comfortable, look get...

My first thought, would be to look at the turn signal switch since most of the effected circuits go through the switch. That being said, I can’t explain the radio blinking but if it is in conjunction with the blinker than it is getting energy from the blinker circuit. Disconnect the steering...