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The A/F ratio should remain flat with respect to RPM. That is, you want 12.7 ish from the stall RPM of your converter to the shift point or trap RPM at WOT. Carburetors are proportional fuel air mixers, so they want to do this, and it would be a challenge to make a properly sized carb do any...

Ideally you want the same AF ratio. For bracket racing you want consistency and predictability. As others have said, once the tune-up on the car is settled, most racers will leave it alone and keep notes on how their car runs compared to density altitude. That way dial-in numbers can be...

That's an even worse idea. With both sides unhooked it can swing down and make contact with the track. If it's the common aftermarket style that mounts to the bottom of the axle with the links forward, that could be a bad bad thing. Like jammed into the gas tank at 100 MPH bad.

Well a "Hemi" head is about as open a chamber as it gets, the poly head as well. As for closed chambers making power, take a look at an old Chevy 235. Plenty of quench, but absolutely diabolical for flow. Also, shallow open chambers have less surface area, which means less area for combustion...

Open chambers tend to have less issues with valve shrouding, but this isn't universally true. Also, an open chamber is marginally better for flame travel. Most engines designed in the last 30 years, especially overhead cam engines have shallow open chambers.

Have you considered a low gear set for the 904? 3.55's with the low first are similar to 4.10's with the normal gears. Flip side is the RPM drop between gears which would be happier with a more torque oriented cam.

With the cast manifolds and a mild cam, I would say you'd gain little if anything on the strip, and due to the large ports take a hit in throttle response on the street. X-heads, the XE268, an LD340/Performer RPM and a good old Holley 3310 would work better. Even better still with a set of...

No offense meant at all Keith. Aside from a TDI VW family hauler I've never put fuel mileage as first consideration when it comes to my various cars or car projects (and even then it wasn't the main reason I bought it). And although MPG is a valid concern, I think most of us, as enthusiasts...

And 10 MPG really isn't that bad in the greater scheme of things.:D:D:D

Technically it takes the same amount of "stored energy" (elastic potential energy) to hold the front end off the ground a given amount regardless of wheel rate (spring constant "k" in Hooke's Law). It's a function of front end weight. In a launch situation a softer set of bars may have...

Why suck the oil into the intake if you can spray it on the back tires.

Octane should have no effect on AF ratio, but will effect total timing and therefore power potential. This assumes your compression is high enough to require that octane rating. If your 110 is leaded (blue Avgas) the lead may shorten the life of the oxygen sensor.

People have been racing with this (LA) engine for 50 years. If there was enough to be gained by doing this to offset the expense, it would be common practice. Sometimes when something isn't a popular modification, it's because there is no reason to do it. FWIW I believe the reason it's not...

Air is 78% Nitrogen to begin with, so we typically fill our tires with mostly Nitrogen already. For just about any automotive use, you'll never be able to detect a difference. Tire stores chirping up the fact that they inflate with Nitrogen is just marketing ballyhoo. Aircraft tires are...

Best friend in high school had a dead stock stripper 70 318 Duster. 3 speed manual, 3.23 SG rear, manual steering, manual 10" brakes, bench seats, rubber floor mats and a trailer hitch. Ran mid 16's as long as you wanted to beat on it.

Front drum clutches are going away.

Some say the track is haunted after some fan deaths in the 80's.

Same here, double rats.

"Speed costs, how fast do you want to spend?" Unless you are looking for a dedicated race car, you should really consider just working with what you have now. A second street car has indirect costs for insurance, plates, maintenance, etc. A dedicated race car needs a trailer, tow vehicle...

Try the tires first. Radial and bias tires on the same vehicle can cause some really funky handling, especially if the suspension has some slop. If it were me, I'd replace all of the bushings, tie rod ends, idler and pitman arms with OEM grade parts before replacing the steering box (unless...

If it's basically a track car without a full exhaust system, a set of short header mufflers might do the trick. Something like these should take the worst of the bark out of it http://www.holley.com/50232FLT.asp

I think you're right on with the 3.91's. A low gear set in the transmission would be the next thing I'd try. Once you're hooking that should get the short times down. As for increasing MPH, your heads are the limiting factor there. A set of 302's with big valves or better yet Magnums.

The oil spray holes also lubed the cam and helped cool the pistons. In a high performance, high RPM engine crank windage is sufficient and extra oil on the cylinder walls could overwhelm the rings causing detonation. So replacement "performance" bearings generally don't have the notch. In a...

Not technically legal due to road tax issues, but 100LL Avgas might have been a solution. Most airport FBO's won't let you drive a car to the pump, but you can always fill cans or a 14 gallon pump-n-go.

Around the guide isn't really in the path of intake flow, so I wouldn't sweat it too much. On a flathead, the bulk of the intake airflow is across the roof of the port and then across to the piston side of the valve (the valve is badly shrouded on all other sides) Focus on all the sharp edges...

Find running motor, bolt in and go. Probably the most economical way if you are on a tight budget. Cam wise, a stock replacement 340 cam works well in a 318 using stock heads and compression. Cheap too. Otherwise a Comp XE262 or so would be about the most I'd run. I would avoid a...

It's done to seal the casting. "Glyptal" or good old Rustoleum red primer work. Jaguar, Triumph and others actually painted the insides of their block castings. I don't know what they used, but it survived the hot tank on the last TR 4 cyl my dad did. Overkill, but I've been known to do it.

Trunk mounted batteries tend to help traction, but since traction is not a problem for you my guess is it won't help much. I'd look to making the car lighter not heavier (trunk mounted battery adds weight).

Do toy have a traction problem?

If you test with the carb open, the ALWAYS test with it open. Same if you test closed. I always test 4 strokes (8 crank revolutions) noting how fast the compression comes up on the first stroke, and where it levels out on the 4th stroke. Strokes 2, 3 and 4 should be pretty similar, the first...