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Slow.....work seems to have overtaken my time. I'm hoping now that the weather is warming I'll be more driven to get after it. Weekends full of photographing at the drags and a few weekends out carving the corners in the racebeast...maybe it will be a retirement project, unless I can sign up...

As a general rule, the leaf spring design imparts lateral stiffness that will prevent the housing from shifting excessively side to side. When using the 3-link/torque arm, 4-link set-up the housing is more free to move.

Re-search is when you make the second trip around the car looking for where you set your beer.

As far as effect on pinion angle, the torque arm will have less impact on the change in pinion angle over the travel of the suspension than the 70% type 3rd link. Its a matter of how much the third member will rotate during the travel up and down, the longer the triangle the less of a change of...

BINGO! But I also wanted to clear up my comment......most of it was said with tongue in cheek. From a pure racing (road, oval, drag) and engineering perspective, the more rigid you can make the chassis, the more consitant your performance will be. The trick is setting up the suspension to...

While you comment is true.....sometimes it is better to allow SOME flex (usually torsional) to help keep everything planted. My current race car (non-Mopar) is stiff enough it tends to lift the front tire during the hairpins (not that I am using it anyway). Using common engineering sense (if...

Mark me down as a member of the HDK club.....or actually the number one member of the HDKX club! I can't wait to get this thing in and start figuring out everything else. What a great foundation to start with. I enjoyed visiting with Denny and being able to crawl under his silver beast...

Niceeeeeee.............. Should be able to twist the frame like a pretzel before this monster ever complains!

From my experience, the only negative effect using drop spindles may/will have is: - Caster adjustments may not be able to be reset to factory specs - HOWEVER - if you are looking for increased negative camber (road race - auto-x) you are gaining adjustment! - The jury is still out on the effect...

Sticky tires, anti-roll bars and seat time, seat time, seat time!

Amen to that!!!

You are correct Sir! I miss-typed....the rear end reacts in the rotational direction towards the shock to put them in compression during hard launch with the shocks rearward of the axle.

If you are strictly straight lining it (drag racing) and maybe a little street driving (cruises, etc.) there is no need for a sway bar. Removing the extra weight from the front end will help your weight transfer during launch. If you will be doing more street driving, long trips or like crisp...

Depending on your set-up, one benefit for mounting the shocks behind the axle is that during extreme acceleration (drag launch) the axle tends to want to rotate top forward. If you are using the stock leaf spring set-up mounting the shocks behind the axle will help dampen the torsional effects...

I would be interested to know how many people actually RACE these different set-ups. What is your suspension/set-up knowledge level? Why you chose one system over another based on more than just hearsay. I'll go first: - I Road Race in the American Iron Series with NASA (Brand F....for...

Something wicked this way comes......

The biggest question, FoxMopar, is what you are looking to do. Is it to be different, auto-x, cruiser, daily driver, etc. Getting into a full coil over set up can be expensive! An HemiDenny or RMS will drastically change handling dynamics. What do you plan to do with the rear suspension...

Wow...that looks like something I would like to try sometime (hillclimb).

Hard to tell from your photos Denny, but it appears the tie-rod remains quite parallel to the LCA. This is key to minimizing bumpsteer! Since most cars don't have equal length tie rods and LCA's, the pivots change during the arc of travel. If you set ANY suspension up with the tie rods...

Any suspension set-up should be neutralized and measured/re-measured. It's best to set the car on all 4 wheels and start measuring. Use as much triangulation as possible from front to rear and from fixed body mounts. Put a sack of sand in the driver's seat to mock your own weight to get the...

Gary: I would be concerned with this swaybar...I don't think it will control much sway as it is too far inboard to allow the pivot bar to wind-up. These end-link style sway bars utilize the torsion of the bar (like the stock front ends) to transfer the load to keep the body parallel to the...

Sway bars, brake upgrades, sticky tires and practice, practice, practice! It also helps when someone from the CP group does the cone layout - more use of the HP! It's hard to compete with the Miatas and Hondas on an average auto-x course, trying to move all of your weight around nimbly is...

What that your first hit on the open track crack-pipe? You'll be waking in the middle of the night in cold sweats from here on in...waiting to do it one more time....and again...and again..... Car looks very stable, didn't get any real feeling that you were too loose - how did the overall...

Many different track groups rent the track from time to time. They have instructional classes for the beginners to the experienced and plenty of open lapping. You can do a two day event for somewhere around $350 I would be glad to let you know the next time one of the groups I am connected...

You should at least take a few laps....one of the best crackpipes in the US!!

The debate over tire aspect ratio continues....... The lower profile tires do have benefits, but the loss of sidewall flex can actually inhibit the tire contact with the road (contact patch). Some flexing of the sidewall will help maximize contact patch during extreme cornering. Lower...

Let them sit out in the sun for 20 minutes.....same ease of install benefit.

The biggest thing about caster is making both sides the same. I have set-up (read that as restored from a sudden impact) at the track using an angle gage (or a decent bubble level) by measuring from a a spindle housing, strut, or whatever means necessary to compare one side to the other. For...

Adjustable too! (I am a bit concerned about your choice of safety footwear.....)

You can also cut a couple of notches along the length of the bearing race with a die grinder. The races are heat-treated and brittle, with the grooves cut in them they will break into pieces when you use the punch from behind. Just be sure to wear your safety glasses. (Choice #2 if you can't...