Search results for query: *

If it was me...I'd do the tub work and spring relocation first. Then buy the 10" wheels and tires looking for the best deal on wheels without custom offset which adds additional money. Places like Summit often have "weird" offset wheels listed for half price because they're taking up space...

If you rotate one axle flange and the opposite side rotates in the same direction, it's a Sure Grip. If it spins opposite direction it's the more common open rear end. Since you have super powers, you should be able to get to the other side before it stops spinning. :lol: Easier with car on...

Ha! I'm at the exact same stage as you. I'm not doing a console but I'd like to offset my shifter to the left to make it look more stock. I looked at the Lokar Axi-shift but it seems to raise the handle attachment which I don't like. I just used junk I had laying around so far to check driver...

I bought a 1965 B&T trans at a local swap meet about 5 yrs ago. It was from a V-8 Barracuda and yes, /6 and V-8 were the identical 3.09 first gear trannies. I paid $225 and $150 more for the after-market Hurst Comp Plus shifter and rods. My thinking was it's a direct swap in place of my 1964 3...

I sent used C-body axles ($35 swap meet) to Moser and they shortened and resplined them for $85. The VERY NEXT day after I sent them, one state over, they called me to clarify usage. I told them over the phone A-body 8-3/4 with B-body brakes. (10" X 2-1/2") They knocked them out same day and the...

Assuming automatic? There are 2 brackets welded to the floor for mounting the console. 2 screws on the sides up front and 2 more screws accessed through the console opening into the orher bracket. I think AMD reproduces them. The shifter linkage is as shown in post #2. There is a wire loom for...

A legitimate Mopar show won't allow you through the gate. Sell the LS and buy a 5.2 or 5.9 from a junkyard RAM if you "need" a V8. If you go GM, don't forget to paint the engine compartment black, the trunk blue-gray splatter paint, slapper bars of course, 3" chrome exhaust tip and every plastic...

Looks like the cooler lines are getting kinda rusty. You might consider new prebent. 1968-69 Dodge A-Body Dart V8 5/16 Looks like you need to straighten the lower core support. Floor jack, a little hammer and dolly work, weld, grind, paint, that kinda stuff .

Very easy to verify and really it's a good thing to know anyway. Look at driver side of third member for casting number. If it ends in 489, it's the cone type sure grip. If it's 742, then rebuildable clutch type. Could also be 741, weakest of the three.

This is the one I used: All Balls 19-5008 17mm X 60mm X 81mm long. $13.20 from Amazon. I had to do a little slicing and dicing for my 64 Val.

About 3 yrs ago I bought a NOS trunnion boot and kit while at Carlisle. Actually, may have been NORS. It was too big to fit my 64 Val so if you have a choice, go small. Original boot was split and still throwing grease on the underside of my car. Then 2 summers ago I adapted an ATV boot and...

Don't overtighten. Easy to split gasket washer.

Seems to be a common problem. I had a Neon that did the same thing, oil pressure sending unit though. You might consider obtaining the original P/N and looking for NOS. (2932820 for 1969, same P/N for 904 and 727) Chrysler most likely used the same part for many years so there's gotta be some...

I made one by gutting an old spark plug. Ran a 3/8-16 tap through the body. Rounded the end of a 3/8 bolt to contact the piston. You might try driving the car in 2nd gear and bringing it up to the same rpm you see in 3rd at 60 mph. If the vibe happens I'd suspect the engine/trans. If no vibe...

Sitting here on the patio on a pleasant, breezy Sunday morning is a great time to spend other people's money. I think you should stay with the 3.55 and add OD. It just makes for a more enjoyable driver. I find it better to do things like this right from the beginning instead of later and it...

I'll be the first to admit I know very little but you did NOT mention if you verified bellhousing bore alignment with a dial indicator. Seems to me that if the input shaft is off center, it may be getting enough side loading not allowing it to stop rotating. I've only rebuilt one 833 and...

We had a local guy known as 9inch Harry. (His last name was not Reems) A retired engineer who rebuilt 9" carriers. My buddy had his done there. Harry kept a log book of every one he did and it was over a thousand. Unfortunately, he died a couple years ago and his inventory was sold to another...

We think alike. Mine's a convertible so when I take off from a light, people in their air conditioned SUV's are looking down at me rowing through the gears thinking what's that clown doing? I call my 3 on-the-tree a factory anti-theft device. But...its not so good if you're in a hurry. I made...

If you're debating between 3 or 4 speed on the floor, I'm voting 4 speed. I'm actually doing the same thing on my 64 Valiant. 3 on tree to 4 speed. I just painted the 4 speed case and tail shaft housing this morning.

If you walked into a dealership in 1966 and bought a Valiant with no options the trans would've been a 3 speed manual on the column. Optional was the 904 and a 4 speed. There was never a 3 speed on the floor until 1970. And it finally had a synchronized first gear! Barracudas were Valiant based...

Yes remove the spring for diaphragm or pedal may stick to floor. Some replace it with a much weaker hardware store spring. Dan Brewer on here hopefully will jump in.

The B body axles need to be 28" long after shortening. They are tapered near the splines. If you do not have at least 28" from the outside of the flange to the beginning of the taper, then they won't work in your application. There were several different width b body axles over the years. I had...

Yes. Needs to be coordinated with trans output shaft angle or you'll get bad vibes and u-joint/driveshaft probs.

Yes it is normal for it to shift into 3rd when throttle is relaxed. Try keeping the gear selector in 2 if you do not want it to upshift.

High RPM's. Don't count on getting a lot of passes at the NATS if you are doing fun runs. You may be better off to go to a local track before then to experiment with your launch RPM. Or find a deserted area somewhere to practice. I've actually beaten some 440 powered cars with my street 318...

My vote is cheap imported bearings. I would tend to trust Timken (even if Asian-sourced) over no-name brand but.....who knows these days.

So, the axle shaft needs to come out. Pretty sure you have to disassemble the rear brakes. The axle is held in by a flange and 5 nuts. You access the nuts with a 9/16" socket on an extension through a hole in the axle flange. Rotate the axle by hand to the 5 positions. Then the axle pulls right...

I believe my stock length BBP 8-3/4 axles are both 28". Cut down to fit stock a-body housing. So you're looking at something with 3" greater track width if that helps.

Yeah, looks like "Mopar" and maybe a junkyard quick ID but they usually use a white or yellow paint pen. Or is it a bored assembly line worker? I used to scratch things on newly made steel when I worked in a steel mill when I was a kid. Hmmm...may never know for sure.

I ordered a 1978 LeBaron with a 318. This was the first year for the Lockup as used in a Mopar. It was mechanical, not electrical, as soon thereafter, a TSB was issued to change out a spring that affected the lockup. I bought the kit and installed it myself along with a B&M shift kit. I know it...