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I talked to the AAR representative several yrs ago at the Mopar Nats about glass hoods and scoops. He said the SS/AH guys did not bond their scoops because the joint will eventually crack. Steel hood and glass scoop? NO Way! You can have the most beautiful paint and it will crack. Studs and...

Don't hold me to it, but I think when I worked in the Point of Purchase industry we called them Canoe Clips.

Ok, then I could see why you might want to go back. A good friend of mine has a 1973 340 4 speed Dart Sport same color as yours and it's a nice looking car.

IMO. If your clone includes the Demon tail lights, I would leave it as It looks very nice. At the end of the day, a 72 Demon is worth more than just about any 74-75 Dart. If you still want to do a trade, I think you should get $3-500 cash. AND, most likely you'd have to paint it to match. My...

I took this picture in April of a 1965 Dart rocker panel intending to post it in the convertible forum. It is the driver side looking forward. Note how the floor pan rests on a ledge built into the inner rocker. You need to remove the front floor pans to fully see how extensive the rust is. I...

AMD has the lower valance and 1967 FB quarters which can be used by your body shop. 10 G sounds pretty high, like they don't want to do it. Sounds like it just needs skins but pictures would be useful

That style was commonly used among body styles. Probably not too difficult to find. I'm surprised no one mentioned RT Specialties. Unless they are out of business, they used to be the go-to place.

It looks to me like the bezel can be loosened and repositioned. Maybe the upper of the 2 chrome pieces can be rotated to correct the angle, then retightened. After more than 50 years it could have an incorrect antenna mast too. Not all fenders were made with antenna holes in them but yours...

Yes it was a leaded factory seam. Here's a picture of a NOS quarter laid onto a brown car, left side shown. This lead joint was melted out and spot welds drilled. You can see that after the 2 panels were spot welded together, a channel was formed to receive the lead. It is common for moisture...

Jim had no 69 quarters left in August. AMD has almost abandoned us. Supply and demand. I'm willing to bet they have to buy in minimum quantities and it costs money to have them sit in a warehouse in the states until they are sold. His son gave me a good cash and carry deal on a 68 quarter and...

NO! They are not being made anymore. I spoke with Jim Kramer at the Mopar Nats in August. They bought the remaining stock of AMD 2nd gen cuda quarters. Once they are gone they are gone forever.

Trim for what?

Check with DMT, a vendor here. I believe he has an inexpensive chrome lock strip that isn't 100% correct but may work for you. It's far better than an empty void.

IIRC, factory shop manuals call for using Lubriplate. Just like Frank's Hot Sauce, they use that sh*t on everything.

Paintref.com has multiple paint manufacturer cross reference numbers. I looked up my 1968 LL1 and found numbers for 6 different manufacturers.

Also check with Stephens Performance. He is the largest AMD distributor.

On my 68 and 69 cuda those are sheet metal screws. My 68 has a stock screw and one screw that is a size larger. All it takes is one over zealous mechanic to strip those holes. So that's why my screws don't match. Looks like you have a Duster but I'd guess the rivnut was added to fix a stripped...

IMPORTANT! Pay attention to the inside of the front frame rails when you remove the floors. Guaranteed they are paper thin as they rust from the inside out. Also the torsion bar cross member, especially near the large t-bar sockets. This is the area that fails as the anchors twist out and the...

I used the Rustoleum bed liner stuff on the bottom of my 64 Valiant over an Eastwood POR type product. 5 years later and it's holding up well except..........leaking trans fluid from my crummy 3 on-the-tree transmission softens it and is coming off in places. I'll touch it up when I finally do...

I have the same Val as you but the moldings are on the car. I've never had them off so no help. I don't have the car here but maybe I can take one off next weekend. In the mean time, you might check with R/T Specialties as they seem to have the best clip selection.

I use VHT Cast Iron Engine Enamel SP997. The can says up to 550 degrees Chemical Resistant Coating. But I also use DOT5 brake fluid that does not eat paint!

I see them for $100-200. 73-76 Darts are basically the same hood with a few differences.

Those do not look like 67 or 69 Barracuda bezels. There were short and long versions. My wild guess is B body.

I would try removing the mirror and see if there is a screw there that threads into the post. If it is an original, I believe the glass is held in by a ring on the circumference. I bought a NOS one a couple years ago at a swap meet. The vendor said a quick way to tell original from...

Get one from a passenger door, less use=less wear.

When new, there was a definite seam with a smoothed bead of seam sealer that got painted. Over the last 50 years, with rust, body work, repaints etc., most of those seams get filled and smoothed out. But a correct rest would have the seam. The AMD panels fit 67 through 69. 67 and 69 backup...

The guy who runs the resto shop at AMD made some videos. I used to talk to him every year at the Mopar Nats and bought a few of his DVD's. There were times I'd talk to him for more than a half hour but he didn't mind at all. He even asked me to critique his videos. His name is Craig and used to...

Based on what I see of the lock button location, and "soft" window crank, it's a 69. Lock was moved forward for 69 model year.

All are the same from 67 to 69 except for the trim holes. All 3 are different. Even when brand new back in the day, the 2 strips of trim did not line up very well with the tail lights. By the way, there is a top and bottom. Pictures? Funny, I have a younger friend who is a Ford guy and I help...