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What’s wrong with the box? Is it leaking, sloppy, too loose? I’ve built hundreds of these and wouldn’t recommend doing it yourself. I’ve considered making a how-to video, but these boxes are way too involved and few shops in the world know how to build them well. I’m all about DIY, but I’d...

I believe I have 9” 350lb springs on my 64 Valiant. I remember the springs were 1” longer than the recommended length for the shocks. Had to compress the springs to get them on my shocks, but i think that extra energy helps keep the ride height up and still offers suspension travel

Mopar boxes are expensive because they’re difficult to rebuild, especially if you want it done right. Firmfeel gives you a modern feel with no slop on center in a very finicky gear that was designed in the late 50’s. Saginaw boxes can be rebuilt much easier which means cheaper, hence the price...

If the box you have is from a 73, then it will be the large (1 1/4”) sector shaft box and I don’t believe anyone makes a pitman arm to fit the 63-66 a-bodys for that shaft. You need a 72 and older box with the 1 1/8” shaft to have the correct pitman arm. Dead giveaway is the pitman arm ball...

Did you make sure to put the shoes in the coupler correctly? It's easy to assemble those wrong if the shoes aren't rotated the right way, they should barely squeeze into the coupler. FirmFeel has rebuild parts for the box and coupler.

The difference is the mounting bolt hole size. The 66 and older box has a smaller 7/16" bolt size, 67 and up is 1/2".

You could buy just the k-frame reinforcement kit from FFI and possibly find a local welding shop to do the work.

Go with the offset bushings, it'll handle better. Even with those in a stock arm, you still won't have have as much positive caster as modern cars.

These Chrysler boxes have been known to make grown men cry, while Saginaw boxes that are found in fords and chevys can be rebuilt with your eyes closed. I know from experience that Mopar power steering boxes are not an easy DIY process and there's a lot of tricks to making them function well. If...

I'm working on an aluminum piece with a small seal in the middle that will locate the shaft in the column and keep fumes out. I'll post when I get one made and see if there's interest in making a production run of them. I can't run the factory seal because my headers will cook it.

I'd recommend pro steering systems inc. in Portland Oregon.

From the factory, both cars would have small sector(1.125) boxes. Yes they will interchange. However, '73 and up large sector boxes(1.25) will bolt into all E and B bodies, so you should check the cuda to make sure it wasn't replaced with a large sector box. Measure the output shaft, not the nut.

Still cheaper than $125

Firm feel will trade a column adapter for your old power steering box.

Firm Feel on my valiant, great quality.

No need to change all that out. All you need is a small spline (manual) pitman arm that slides down through the top of the 73 & up centerlink. They do exist and FirmFeel has them. Plus you have the option of switching to a fast ratio PA in the future.

I welded some .120" steel to either side when I did mine that way.

If you look through my 440 valiant build, I got a magnumforce coilover kit with j-bars to support the shock towers. This is fairly inexpensive and allows you to use the stock K-frame. I bet you could run shockwave style airbags instead of coilovers with that setup.

Call FirmFeel

Firmfeel has a 20:1 and 16:1 quick ratio box

Remove the steering box. Heat the coupler with a torch. With a glove pull the coupler away while tapping it with a hammer. If that fails, air chisel, and if that fails, call FirmFeel.

FirmFeel has a kit, completely bolt on

Do you mean they hit the lower control arm bump stop bracket? I have Viking coilivers and they interfered with that, I just notched the bracket until it cleared.

Yes, you can swap the return valve with no issues.

Firm Feel

Yes, 8.75 and 8.25 have the same shock plates. 3" tubes

Its a return valve. They have a tendency to clog up and this could cause a leak from too much pressure. Unbolt the nipple and clean the internals with some solvent or brake cleaner, make sure it goes back together the same way it came apart! Get some new O rings and run it. No Gasket. Also...

Awwww man. That crack is not good. The steering box is bolted to that flange which is welded to the k frame, no plate. These K frames are known to flex in this area, that's why most people weld reinforcement plates to fully "box" that flange mount in. By the looks of it you are going to have to...

Firm feel has the fast ratio worm gears for manual boxes. You can DIY or have them build the box for you. I built a 16:1 for my 64 valiant.

The only problem with leaving the outside portion of the frame is that the RMS boxes have 4 mounting holes, so you will have to drill those holes out of the existing frame. The other option is to cut out both sides of the frame. Here's a good rundown...