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Hey, apology accepted. Phil

Your argument comes from a place where you’re saying “and the radiator cannot shed heat.” That’s a big “and” there isn’t any reason the radiator cannot shed the heat while the engine can generate the heat, while the thermostat is removed. Only if there is another factor causing the overheating...

“in a system without a thermostat”

Why doesn’t the engine need to be given a chance to heat water up, since the radiator needs a chance to cool it down?

I disagree on this. And I’ve heard it a lot. Because what is being said is that water cannot be cooled down at the same rate as it is heated up. If the idea were true and the thermostat was removed, the water would be flowing through the engine faster as well. Then the water cannot be heated...

I have an A&A deep pan like that for a 904. Great piece.

Are you wanting to make your own transbrake system?

Maybe the 6 quarts reference in the manual is for a completely dry transmission and converter. I could see a quart or two being hidden in all the empty spaces of the clutch packs, sun and planets, valve body, the tail shaft, etc after operation.

Hey you seem to have it figured out. I smoked a clutch pack and bandset to death and I didn’t see an outline in the pan, just a couple millimeters of filth. Were the pans you’ve removed that had an outline just dented like it had been jacked up from the pan? Maybe pans and extensions have...

You’re saying run the filter as-is with a deep pan? How much trash is usually in your pan? 1/8” or something? With the correct extension the filter sits at the same level as oem. The top of the filter is also porous to allow flow. There is nothing to worry about.

Half an Inch overfilled? No! If the fluid level is a little low with a deep pan, it doesn’t matter. The filter/suction extension drops the pickup down to the bottom so it will always be submerged. The dipstick is designed for the shallow pan. Running an overfilled trans is a bad idea and it’ll...

Kickdown band, accumulator, and the governor controls 1-2 automatic shift. Tighten band to 72 INCH pounds, back off 1 1/2 - 2 1/2 turns depending on which band, what ratio the kickdown band lever is, and what valve-body you have. Manual shifting adds the release of the low/reverse band going...

One thing to mention here. I’ve done extensive research on engine thrust bearing failures. Some things they mention are excessive pressures in the cooling circuit which causes the torque converter pressures to increase above normal range. Every article I’ve read suggests to run an additional...

Trailbeast is right, a trans clutch or band that has actually slipped won’t last a Few seconds before it wants to weld itself to the contact surface. Had a front clutch that slipped and fused 2 clutches and 3 steels together. Vehicle would move foreword in neutral. A band will just smoke itself...

I’d call A&A and get everything you need. Frictions, bands, and steels, also rebuild the servos and like said - get a governor kit. I hauled the case to a trans shop and had them push bushings. You must almost always have to change the bushings up front. Since you hit the track, a bolt in sprag...

A band adjustment never hurts. Might as well do one while you’re in there adding the accumulator spring. Although you may need a line pressure adjustment after all.

An extreamly hard shift can be confused with improper 1-2 overlap. The result is being in both gears at the same time for a split second. It is when the rear band is still hanging on when it should be fully released, and the front band is already applied or prematurely applied. Usually a nice...

You’re thinking of the 2 band servos w/ 2 springs. Accumulator is between both servos and the spring is located between the piston and the valve body. When pulling the valve body, on-vehicle, the spring usually falls out and rolls away.

How’s the accumulator set up? Weak spring? Strong spring? No spring? Locked out with a small rod? You want an oem spring in the accumulator with a manual valve body if you’re experiencing hard shifts. If you already have the spring in there, you need to have the line pressure checked and...

Sounds all like a linkage problem. Any way you could safely disconnect it from the transmission and go for ride? Is it possible the trans is just kicking down prematurely and what you’re feeling is a downshift from 3-2? Has the kickdown linkage been inspected and adjusted correctly?

It spins freely and the pump lugs are still fresh. I’m not sure what ruined the thrust bearing. I had to bolt the trans up, in-vehicle, twice. From what I know, I could have damaged the thrust bearing then. I did not do a pressure test unfortunately. I should have, because we might also think...

Agree with you on that! Although I did rebuild a truck 727 from pump-sprag with it installed in the truck. Huge pain making sure that the drum, clutches, and sun shell were installed correctly. With the assembly stacked up on the bench, I measured the gap of the shell-drum. Then played with it...

Thanks guys. Sounds right to just tighten the front band and pull the pump Jpar - trans has only 10 hours on it since overhaul. Plan is to drain and inspect filter. If contaminated, then trans will come out. I don’t want to remove the drums because I would never be able to respline the front...

With the engine removed, I need to inspect the trans pump in-vehicle for damage after an engine thrust bearing failure. If I remember right I can just run the bands down all the way to lock the front drum to the front planet shell and pull the pump without the unit sagging and becoming unsplined.

Unfortunately you need a new pump support designed for a 5 clutch drum. You’ll notice the foreward side of the drum is tapered and the pump support you have is not tapered to accept the drum. This is why folks put 5 thin clutches and steels in a 4 clutch drum. Or use thick ones and shave down...

Was previously installed! On a 76. At least the drum was. The piston was a 4 clutch type. You can tell because on a 5 clutch, the drum is tapered inside where the piston is and extends into to it to help fit the stack-up. So these jokers used a 4 clutch piston with 5 super thin steels and...

No adjustments for 3rd except a line pressure adjustment and kickdown. You might be able to get it to act better by removing the accumulator spring and just putting the piston back in. Or put in a block off tube with the piston. If you're truely slipping at all, those clutches are trashed...

Looks like you missed the bushing so I'd throw a new seal in there with a smear of hylomar or silicone on the outer area and lube the lip seal with fluid. Were you able to try and pry the seal out with 2 screwdrivers or bars 180* from each other? Using only 1 seems to always make the seal...

The best thing you could do right now is make a game plan for the engine you have now and the turbo one in the future. They are going to be completely different animals. Turbos with an unknown cam that may have a lot of overlap, a high stall converter, and 3.91 gears do not mix. Adding 150+ hp...

Here's an odd thought, could you slightly overfill the trans to splash lube the internals if you decide to tow with engine off?? Although the constant jerking forward and back would probably accomplish the same. Or just disconnect driveline from axle and tie it out of the way.