Search results for query: *

I noticed the exact same heat related issue with my 1971 Duster 340. My car has the lighted ignition switch time delay feature when the door is opened. The light around the ignition switch area fades slowly over time, and then goes out. If I drive my car for 1/2 hour or more the ignition...

(QUOTE) The headlight relays will do wonders for the illumination levels as it takes the load out of light switch and harness and routes power from the battery straight to the lights. Easy as plug and play. There is a member here that makes them or you can buy them on ebay. I have used 3...

Do you have the GROUP number (i.e. 4-5-or-6?) that Costco uses these batteries? Looking at the Kirkland book that lists all the batteries by car manufacturer, the A bodies from the 1969 - 72 era were not listed. I'm ready to buy a Kirkland - Costco battery this week - IF - I can determine...

There is a gentleman on MOPARTS.com who is in Alabama, goes by the name of Greg, who is a master craftsman repairing Mopar electronics. He posts there, and has a thriving radio repair / swap business, all top notch, not the cheapest, not the most expensive either, but it will be done right...

I found that the chrome box was much more reliable and long-lived on my 1969 340 Swinger compared to the factory orange box.

Anyone have a FSM picture or a camera photo showing where the ground wire connects to the column and the dash frame?

I'm very interested in what answers you receive, since I have a issue that is somewhat similar. When I drive my car for more than 15 minutes, the steering column near the ignition switch warms up more than normal. I have the optional factory light package with the time delay for lighting...

Thank You for posting this, excellent pictures and explanation! Any advice on testing the repaired unit, before install?

Evans states publicly they won't make the dash harness, but they have made those harnesses for some people on the Moparts website, when the owner can provide the original for mockup.

Thanks very much for this very useful reference info!

I agree that the Accel coil might be your problem. Any chance you have a Mopar stock coil available to swap in? A few years ago on the Moparts board, a person running a Accel coil had similar problems. As I recall the coil was swapped and the problem disappeared. The voltage match...

+2. Upgrading the wiring is a must if you going to a higher output alternator.

Thanks for the Evans info. We have several members in the CPOC (DC Metro area Chrysler Owners Club) that have Evans replacement wiring, and with no issues. Sometimes people do make mistakes, but as you correctly point out, it's all about how problems are handled and ultimately resolved.

Evans will make an exact copy of your factory underdash rallye dash wiring harness, if you send your original to them. I have no idea as to what they would charge, but every single harness I have seen --- made by Evans --- has been superb. Google Evans Mopar factory wiring or perhaps...

As an alternative, running a wire directly from the alternator + output terminal to the battery side of the starter relay mounted on the inner fender on the drivers side, without touching the ammeter wiring, has also worked. My 1971 Duster 340 has the rallye gauge cluster where the ammeter is...

No, that entire article was about replacing the Ammeter with a volt meter, and re-routing the amp output from the Alt output side to the starter relay. The bulkhead connector and the dash volt limiter have been problems for some. I've never had the problem, but some on Moparts have had the...

Sorry for the confusion. This is what I should have done a better job describing in the previous post. I was wondering if perhaps this is part of my problem. Bypassing the AMP gauge at the dash, replacing with a volt meter http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml...

Thank You Redfish! If I find the connectors exiting the column in good shape, as well as the car's harness side, where else should I look to find the source of the problem? Would running a wire from the alternator output side directly to the starter relay, thereby bypassing the dash...

Redfish -- thanks for all the test info., really good thread! I have a possible ignition switch issue as well with my '71 Duster 340, in that after I drive the car for more than 15 minutes the steering column collar near the steering wheel key lock cylinder becomes warm to the touch...

Never add a high power - high amp alternator without also upgrading the front engine wiring harness, and doing the alternator field hookup - interior voltage regulator bypass re-wiring--- i.e. adding a heavy gauge wire directly from the alternator output to the starter relay and/or the battery...

Found the problem---Wire for the neutral safety switch on the drivers side of the 727, was almost hanging completly off the switch! Cleaned, re-attached, car starts right up! Thanks guys for all your help!

Guys thanks for the insights. It's about 20 degrees Farenheit outside right now, so I may hold off until the weekend. The battery, on the first start attempt, was strong. What about the neutral safety switch going bad? How to test? Thanks again.

This evening I hopped into my 1971 Duster 340, gave the gas pedal a couple of pumps, and turned the ignition key to the start position. The car cranked a couple of revolutions, but did not start. This is, BTW, quite typical of this car, after sitting for a couple days. Usually just pumping...