Search results for query: *

Thanks for clearing that up Dave. What would you value it at?

Reverse switch? Are you saying this is out of a B body car?

I am not sure about the sending unit, maybe someone on here can answer that question. @toolmanmike

Is this a 66-69 tach wiring harness for the console?

You could have the wrong wires connected to them. There are two plugs, one for the turn signal bullets on the fender and one for the side marker. Get out your timing light and test or turn on your turn signals to see if the side marker flashes.

on my 1968 Valiant, yes that switch was for the backup lights.

Thank You! You provided the best answer.

That is the problem, some have slots and will not turn. Others are smooth, the one I was able to get the lens out of.... How can you grip the bulb? SO TINY! My fingers will not fit in there

Title says it all, does anyone know how to replace the light bulbs inside these indicators? Thanks

The cars that came with console tachs had it's own wiring harness

I have the vacum gauge if you want to replace yours

I got mine from Amazon

It is behind the driver's side kick panel (rear body harness) You probably have everything wired correctly, so I would check your ground connection at the sending unit.

As stated earlier, there is not a lot you can eliminate. But there are extra connectors in the bulkhead as well as the three harnesses that plug into it from the engine compartment that you could use.

It is not normal, you have a ground issue that is causing that to happen.

I like it a lot, turned out really nice!

How did you do this dash (radio / Heater ) arrangement?

Or the wrong bulb in one of the sockets, I have seen that cause similar problems.

They stay on, you are thinking of the front turn signal lights that go off when the headlights are on.

Is there really that much loss by running a short negative cable to the frame?

Don't forget the electrical grease on all your connections.

Thanks 67Dart273, I did consider that but it would have looked crappy with the Dart dash. I will keep the light and have an underdash gauge. You have been a GREAT help, THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!! I should have mentioned this in the beginning that the car is a 69 that I am converting to a 68 which...

WooooooooHoooooooo finally got everything working! I did have to take the instrument cluster out again so here are the pics of the backside. It turned out to be the fusible link and the connector so I followed the link and instructions that others posted here. That was greatly appreciated.

Well I was able to get a few minutes under the car today and found the Neutral safety switch only had the center pin left. That explains why the wires were grounded to the firewall. I found another switch but don't have the connector so I am being creative and making my own because the extra...

Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures but it is fairly simple and straight forward. The gauges are easily taken apart once you remove the front lens/cover. I carefully used a screwdriver and went around the entire perimeter until it would come off. The needle simply pulls off (careful not to...

Here is a picture of the dash installed with the key off. I used the needles from the factory gauges that were no good any more and epoxied them to the needles they supplied for a "factory" look. Will post another with the engine running for comparison. Second picture is an exploded view of the...

Wow RedFish, You are right. After I read your post, had to think back as to how much gas I put in. It ran out of gas and I put somewhere between 7-8 gallons in. So that would be correct? I also replaced all the gauges with new Equis that I took apart and expoxied to the original faces for a...

Okay, I have replaced the front harness and found that the previous owner bypassed the neutral safety switch ( what a moron). Anyway, got the fusible links installed and bypassed the amp gauge. Will work on the neutral switch next. I have checked the orange wire from the harness to the fuse box...

Nah, I am not intimadated by it at all. But I have to admit it is getting harder to follow the wiring diagrams. Need stronger glasses I think!

Thanks Steve, I just finished reading the entire article about the weak wiring in these cars and will do what they suggest from the website: http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml heading to the parts store now to get some fusible links and crimp and solder connectors...