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Just guessing here, but with a super expensive rear piece, it must be a 65/66 hard top? If so, the rear is not being reproduced for either year as far as I know. But I would use Steele Rubber products for the front, and pray like hell the rear can be reused. If it’s any other year, Steele is...

Since fenders are a one year only design for 69 Barracudas, and the same for 67/68, they would need to make 2 separate molds to cover all 3 years. Now, the hardest part to find for 67-69 Barracudas would be the trunk extensions, or “drops”, which would fit all 3 years and are non existent in the...

Unless things have changed, the only piece available in the aftermarket is the lower piece, which happened by accident. It was Joel from Metro Parts that decided to repop this piece, although he thought that both the upper and lower were the same. Luckily, he had a nice lower to use as a...

That’s because early A bodies have both, carpet hood downs and sill plates. That is the carpet hold down.

Prices are out of control everywhere you look nowadays. It sucks to be doing a car when everything has gone so out of reach.

Tri-City Plating in Tennessee is your best bet. They cannot be bought in the aftermarket, so you will need to have yours rechromed.

Cool car, and very unique. Gotta love our Aussie brothers!

It’s as easy as a minor adjustment on the rear hood to hinge bolt. As mentioned above, loosen the bolts slightly, lift the front of the hood slightly to allow the rear bolt to slide down in the hole and tighten them back up. Do a little at a time, and mark where you started by using a pencil...

Post pics of the trim sets you need identified. I’m currently parting out about 8 67-69 Barracudas, and can probably identify most of the trim you have.

This is 1970 original B5 Blue

I believe so. It’s the 69 that is a different headlight bucket design.

I didn’t know that either. I do have a 68 and 69 rear window for the OP if he feels the need to change. And the front and rear window trim as well. If he’s in Michigan, he’s more than welcome to come by and pick up some stuff. The cars will all be going to scrap over the next couple weeks.

The 67 used a different gasket front and rear to accommodate the expansion strip that you push into the gasket to seal the window. Changing to the 68/69 trim requires buying the correct gasket, and adding the trim clips to hold the trim. It’s a common swap, but the window/windows need to be...

Dimensionally, the header panels are the same. Except for the center plastic grille piece, the surrounds from 67 and 68 are the same. The only difference I’m aware of are the letters in question. If I were the OP, I would spray down those speed nuts in advance of trying to remove the letters.

it may be now as it was recently sold. Before the sale it had been on the lift and dormant for at least 15 years.

This is an a66 car, the R/T emblems were added because he didn’t understand what he had.

your gaps are very nice and crisp. Don’t sweat a little variation here and there, you’re right on with the body line, and the best possible with all the other points. Sometimes that’s the best you can do. yep on the gaps, the car is all original and never been repainted, never in an accident.

it does have a slight taper, and yes it’s my car.

Factory gapping at its finest!

The outer brackets are undoubtably needed or the bumper would rattle and flex, and probably mar up the edges of the front fenders!

Sometimes I feel like I’m a little whacky, because I love the scratches and dents, and the rust! They tell the tale of a life of service and enjoyment that these cars bring us. Pictured is a big scratch on the door of my Roadrunner. When I went back to the original owners house, he ran his hands...

The “drive it like it is” approach is perfectly alright with me. I’ve been scolded by more than a few people for even thinking of touching the original finish, or even the rust on my Roadrunner. I do think it’s an acquired taste tho, but in the end, if the car runs and you can drive and enjoy...

In order to close the gap at the bottom rear of the door, the top hinge would need to be bumped out a smidge, and the lower hing would need to be bumped in. If there is any change to the front margins, loosen the top fender bolt that is hidden between the door and the fender and readjust that...

It’s not glued in, except maybe a little dab at the end where it flattens out. There may be a screw imbedded in the flatted area, inside the channel. Otherwise, it has flanged edges that “pop” into the metal channel and hold it in place.

Both 65 grilles, the 3 piece is barracuda

They have em at the old school hardware store by my house. They have everything there. It’s so nice to have a hardware store that carries all the old school stuff, unlike the other 2 hardware stores near me. They even had the clutch headed bit I needed for the Holley carb screws, nobody else...

I am, but only Friday. My daughters friend is getting married on Saturday and she really wants to go, so we’re making a day trip out of it. I need some parts that I don’t want to have shipped, and may take this 8 3/4” rear end to sell. Hope to see you there!

I used 3m windshield sealant in the caulk tube when installing my gasket and window. I put it in the channel groove and put the gasket on the car first and taped it in place. Then I put it in the window channel and put in the window. It would probably be ok without it, but I didn’t want to...

I think you made the right choice, Caleb. Instead of losing 5 years and a lot of inspiration, you gained 5 years of fun and experience bringing the car back to life. You even fulfilled a huge bucket list item by bringing it to the Nats, and I know that was high on your list. You can always strip...

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