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You are correct I thought they had them for the front as well. But now I don't think they do.

The Calvert shocks are reboxed Rancho 9000's and are fully adjustable so I see no reason why you couldn't run them on the street. Adjust them for a good ride on the street and set them for the good launch at the track.

You want the measurements? Here's a link the last post will help http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=89203

So I could technically use them as long as I used the bushing to match? I am gonna do a spring relocation anyway so that shouldn't be a problem.

I dont see the difference am I blind? They are both for 2 1/2" springs could it be the bushings?

A-body and b-Body shackles besides $12? http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=mopar+shackles&_sacat=0&_trksid=p3286.m270.l1313&_dmpt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&_odkw=plymouth+shackles&_osacat=0

Yeah you will have to call.

The leafs should work I used my 7.25 springs when I put in my 8.75. They are the same width.

Ok I did mine 2 weeks ago I used i think Precision uppers they are made by Dana. I got them from AutoZoo for $15 each lifetime warranty I rented the socket from Advance Auto cause AutoZoo didn't have it. It took me less then 3 hours to do them and I had never tried before. So for $30 bucks I...

Yeah I can weld not a problem all I would need is the metal bent.

I have read several threads here and I have been to bigblockdart.com and I was wandering would it be that hard to make your own kit? All you need is a metal fab shop to bend a "c channel" and cut it and weld a plate to one end. Then get a steel sleeve to weld in the rear rail for the shackle.

There is apparently 100 was to do this so I think I will ya'lls ideas soke for a little while and then decide which is the best for my application. Thanks for everybody advice you guys are really the greatest.

Here is a few pics of the rear tire space and what the car looks like right now.

Its only maybe an inch or so you really can't notice it but I know it's there. As much work as I am gonna do to this car I might as well make it right.

I think I will loosen everything up and make sure nothing is in a bind before I start cutting.

You know I didn't think about correct ride height.I guess I should have thought about the car being completely stripped of everything but doors. What about the side to side thing?

The tires will be replaced with a shorter tire, and as far as drive shaft there isn't one in the car since there is no motor or trans at this time. Another question side to side there is about an inch difference how do I correct that problem. I bolted one side hanger and perch up tight then...

I put them back in the same as they came out I didn't remove the front perches or rear hangers so I know that is right. The tires I know are too tall they were on my Fury just as rollers 235/75/15 I think. So I can just drill new holes through the springs, use new bolts, and move it back a little?

I recently installed an 8 3/4 from a 68 Satellite 2 door and my rear tires are way to far forward. I have about 1.5-2 inches in the rear but about 1/4 in the front. I reused the /6 rear springs could that be why. I also understand that my tires are really tall but I would think that I should...

Try crackedback he has alot of Duster parts for sale he recently had a completely dissassembled Duster on here to include good frame rails.

Yeah they are stock springs from my /6 Duster. I am planning on getting another set I just thought these would be ok until I got new ones.

OK another question? What can I do to center the wheel/tire in the wheel well? I have no clearance in the front but a couple inches in the rear. Can I drive a new hole an inch or so back in the leaf spring and run a new bolt through it?

Ok I know that the spring perches need to be moved but when I measured the width of my 7 1/4 then the 8 3/4 there was only a half an inch difference between the perches. So does that mean I have to cut off my perches and move each one a 1/4 inch? I already put it in the car just see if it would...

I'll save the beers for when I get back home. If I get caught driving Uncle Sam gets pissed.

Does anybody have good pic of what the torsion bar clips should look like. I see a little groove on the rear side of my current bars but it looks like someone already removed them, but then again I could be looking I the wrong place.

Ok that sounds easy enough. I will just make sure I have all of the right tools.

So just knock them out one end to release the tension and slide them out.

Is there any way to remove torsion bar with out the special little tool. I am heading out to salvage yard tommorrow and if I find a good V8 K-member with disc's I am going to try to get it out as a unit without cutting the bars so I can use them as well to replace my little /6 bars. Any help...