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I am currently running 205/70r14's on a 6" wheel with 3.5" backspacing on my 73 Dart. I am going to 205/60 R15's and either 15x6 rims with 4" backspacing or 15x7 with 4.5" backspacing. Rear is an 8 3/4. Currently everything fits fine although the fronts are close they don't rub but could use...

Nothing some new rims and a quart of black spray dye couldn't fix.

One can never have too many. I say buy them while we can. Scrap is still very high it is good to save as many as we can.

It's pretty simple, the short stroke B engine will turn some serious RPM with even stock parts and the right cam. Good parts and proper build you have yourself an motor that will spin 8k and like it. A lot of other advantages too. Distributor in front, external oil pump, water pump easier to...

On my car the previous owner had sprayed undercoating on everything in the engine bay. Made one hell of a mess. I ended up hooking my power washer to the hot water heater. It took a while but got it clean. A steam cleaner would be faster but you will have to be careful if the car is already...

Typical low ball offer. It is fixable. I would get a real estimate for repairing from a body shop I trusted for starters. A good used front clip and you would be on your way back.

It's not the reproduction tag that is illegal it's using a reproduction tag to misrepresent the car as in a future sale. That is fraud and you could be charged with such, or sued for damages.

What pistons are you running?

Probably wouldn't be all that difficult is you have fabrication and welding skills. But seriously why bother. A fastback that has a ford motor and runs and drives would be worth a lot more and could be drove for a while and sold to help finance your mopar project. A good running 302 is...

A C body rear would be a better choice if you are thinking of narrowing it. The axles are generally long enough they can be re-splined. If your using the early B body rear measure carefully and make sure you can get wheels with the backspacing you want. Wont be an issue at all in a Demon but...

Mopar Action did a test on a 300 HP crate 360 on a dyno. The 360 with headers made about 28 HP more then the lowley 318 manifolds.

They were great hi-po motors from the factory the 275 HP rating was a joke to keep insurance companies at bay. It was never produced as anything other then a hi-po motor. If you were to build a 360 or 318 with the same parts and compression they would run just as hard, the 360 just a little...

Tunnel ram is the way to go.

I would check out Moser the last housing I had shortened I reused the original ends and with new spring perches installed was around $145 to do plus shipping of course which was around $35 each way to Iowa.

Ok thanks for the information will check that. Tranny guy said he though bolt was from retainer and came from differential side of case. When in park it does stop the internals from rotating so perhaps I have that issue fixed. Will check it out, hopefully I can replace bolt without removing...

Still don't know. Looked tonite just don't see where it came from.

Ok I put everything back together, park rod engages correctly now but still have no locking of the wheels on jack stands anyway. An wondering what exactly I broke. It's definatly not a valve body bolt. Will try to get a better look tomorow once everything is done dripping.

Sorry picture would not load. I found the problem to be a broken bolt head found in pan and the test of the bolt was wedged between the park prawl and the case so the park rod just moved on the spring and did not cause the prowl to engage the spragg. I hope I have those terms correct. Anyway...

Here is a picture sorry quality is not good.

Ok took pan of neon today park rod clip was intact but I found this in piece in the pan am wondering where it came from. Kinda looks like an 1/4 allen head bolt sheared off at 3/8 ". Will try to get a pic re-sized to post.

Will check it out. It does start in park and all the other shifter positions seem correct and work ok but maybe it's just off a little.

Thats what I was thinking. Never any noises ever like an internal problem. Will pop it off this weekend and have a look.

It has been out before was rebuilt about 30K ago. Starts fine in park, trans works good no noises seems normal.

Was wondering if anybody else here has had a problem with Dodge Neon 3 speed automatic loosing park function? I am pretty sure transmission is shifting into park but the sprag doesn't hold. Am wondering if clip came off park rod on valve body or if thats a common problem?

Where exactly are you located? I don't know what they are going to charge But I had Moser do a pair last year and it was $110 plus shipping both ways. They called when they were done and I paid with a credit card or they would have returned them COD if I wanted.

Wow at least make it run and air up the tires.

I would touch up pannels as neeeded and give it a good overall buffing. Keeping as much original paint as possible if you want to go the unrestored route.

I would take a shot at getting it titled. Be careful you don't want to do much till you have paper work. I bought a parts car once PO said I could have title once loan was paid I think he had like 3 payments or something. i put a rear under it and adjusted the clutch and added a carb and...

I allways assume they don't work unless they say they do. These are simple radios so I would have a hard time beleving anybody that could remove one correctly could not hook up a speaker, ant , and power wire with a batt and get a basic check. If you can hook up a set of gauges you should be...

Remove the crank and take to machine shop and have it bored for a pilot bushing. You can double check the bearing clearances when you re-assemble. Since you just have the short block on the stand would be easy to do it the right way.