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Sorry guys, maybe I'm not explaining this correct. You measure from the LCA pivot to the ground to set the ride height, this number is in the service manual. You do this before you touch your UCA adjustments. After the ride height, then you align the car. Do this with the motor in, out...

No, you would only readjust the ride height via the torsion bar adjustment. There is nothing else to adjust or change.

Sure, that's why you'd need to crank down the bars and set the ride height without the weight in the car.

Alignment is not set in motion, it is set statically. If there is no engine, it's not going to be driven.

I beg to differ with the general consensus here. If you set the front and rear ride height to where it will sit with everything installed your alignment will be exactly the same as if you had the actual weight in it. The springs and torsion bars know when there is a load on them, but the rest...

This project is coming along great. The idea of the second gusset is sound. Under heavy braking there would be a lot of leverage against that tube, from the center of the tire's contact patch to where the second tube intersects the first one. I know you're using a heavy wall tube and the...

Love the idea of being able to adjust caster in this way. Beats the hell out of those offset UCA bushings.

If you could move the lower ball joint forward 3/8 of an inch you'd gain about 3 degrees of positive caster which would improve the front end geometry a great deal. IMHO, that would be the only reason to get the tubular UCA's. If your LCA's had the same effect, plus you get to ditch the...

Great idea. Will these be built to allow some additional caster?

PLEASE post a picture of that. I've been playing with Mopars for 34 years and I've never seen a factory cast iron manual steering box in any post 62 car.

My 63 is aluminum. The only cast iron manual box I've seen in a Mopar was the flaming river one. How many turns is it lock to lock?

It's been my experience that the manual boxes rarely wear out or leak. I'm not saying it never happens, but I've never seen one that couldn't be adjusted if it was a little loose. Now getting bad rebuilds (carbs, alternators, water pumps, you name it) is pretty common. With that in mind I...

I made my own out of some square tubing cut an angle. I didn't like the bolt on mounts that came with the sway bars.

I just did this on my Valiant. I didn't like the Addco mounts for the K-frame nor those on the shock bolts ao I made my own. The ones on the lower control arm are now straight with no adverse effects.

Has anyone used one of these? I put a post in the wanted section for a Mopar one, in the event I can't find one I am considering one of these. Any input would be appreciated.

I'll get a good ride in this week, but just from going around the block the car feels so much more planted. Before it felt like the door handles were ready to scrape when pulling out of the driveway. The rear bar and then shocks are next on the list.

Thanks guys. I finished it up today. I found the write on slant six. While I'm sure it was as effective as what I did, I just didn't like the way it looked.

Before I go reinventing the wheel, has anyone installed an Addco sway bar on an early A Body? The tabs that bolt on through the shock bolt sit at an angle and the lip they want you to use to bolt the mounts to doesn't exist on the early K-frame. This is for the front, I haven't even looked at...