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I know the inputshaf neefs changed for sure. How about the pump and reaction shart support? I plan on changing. The valve body for sure. This way i can interchange. The high dollar converter. Between transmissions.

ok, so I see you post with pics,makes sense, but what about the input housing with lock up torque converter, would like to be able to run the same between both transmissions, I had ptc make one for me., the non lock up models for standard input spline....

so which port you block off, remove the tube, and block that port on both sides?

hey putting it out there... I removed my 1978' ish a904 hydraulic lock up transmission... opened up to find the problem, a ha... burnt forward clutched and steels. now.. going to make it a non-lock up model for a back up if and when I blow the a904 I built up for the current dart.... other than...

well I does it in park or neutral, unless its form the filter sucking air, it has to be pump or converter... havn't driven it yet,,,, I think sound awesome like a blower under hood, but im thinking it will grenade if left that way...

i recently rebuilt my a904 with all the performance goodies... I have a whine when in operation changes pitch with rpms,, , now, I know that is classic pump or converter whine, does in all gears,,, ie pump... but question... I have a PTC converter that was made for the combination. and...

Trailbeast was a lot of help for me. Shout out......thanks man. Going in as soon as i can get to it.

not with out cutting up the floor, and or expensive adaptor kit, gm200r can be done still going to cost some money . best for budget, is a rebuilt a904.... and high gear 294 ish gears fuel mileage, and small carburetor... or cut it up and go wild but costs money...

Spoke with lane from ptc... Will be on its way next week.

well. I almost have enough saved for the PTC 9.5" 2400-2800 stall converter.... decided to do it right.. hope it is worth the extra dough.....

ok I get it, will figure it out, was just trying to get best bang for the buck with out calling ptc.. which is what I d rather do...

never heard of a slant 6 converter in a small block before, I guess the same, and my question is,,, what ears would I use? 1973 318 block and transmission...

Well @2200-2400/2500 rpm stall is also out where i need it. The 318 zero decked pistions. Before cam duration figured @ 9.8-10:1 compression. After the mp 340 cam duration@ 9.5 compression. With #302 casting heads. If /6 converter will work. In this range. I might go this route.

well precision e-mailed back to me 425.00 plus shipping, no core 100.00 hell, ptc was custom built at 500.00 plus shipping and 9.5"

Can't. Use a 340 converter only with 727 trans. The stall is right though

Can you still get. One reasonable? Whats 340 stall?

In need of a.new converter for my new trans build. A904. Low gearset. 3:50 gears 28" tall rear tire. Tf2 shift kit. Kevlar bands. Hd torque strut. Since. I need to sell the car soon. But didn't want to spend 500.00 at ptc for thete 9.5" unit built 318/ 302 heafs. 340 cam. Airgap intake full...

Ok there is a thud. Not as strong as i would have liked. @45 psi applying yp to 60 psi. Tried pouring fluid down passage ways the air checked. I took a bath in fluid. No i didn't test fit the rings 1st. Didn't. Think of it. So it sound like i will be ok. I guess i can. Carry on. And install...

I resused the a904 stator sealing rings, (metal ones) and the bushings in drums look real good, so reused them to, was recently rebuilt before I got it. but what I have is full clutch apply , get thud noise... and all bands/etc apply, but have excessive air leakage form the center area where the...

that is what I think it was too, he sent me a size chart o the original springs...measured with caliper mic. and so damn close its scary. so that is what has to be. awaiting his response and not to drill plate and to the "R" ball in location.

hey atrial beast talked to jim at trans go, gave me some input, on the spring, and the drilling, thanks for your help. hope you are right about the center sealing...

i have that spring in there, a little smaller, and black, im really lost where that flew from, I was removing the retainer for the p/r valve / etc. and the manual valve at the time. but I have those. that is why im confused?

but i will have a stall converter and states to drill. that is why im confused, sooooo do I not drill and install the large reverse ball.... or omit it? like the ball b. oh any idea what the blue spring id from on the factory valve body. found it loose after removal of the manual control...

ahs anyone ran into where the kit states to drill the hole "r" if not there, and then it states to remove reverse check ball and states install ball on channel plate were hole "r" was drilled? this is the last of it and i"m confused... I will be running a higher that stock converter# 2200-2400...

I do hear a thud. But much less than the air bypassing. i hear. And teying to spin outpuy shaft apears to work. Just whish in had a standard to fo by. Nothing like the modern. 6t70e or 6l80e transmissions. They thunk hard. When applied. Just never done a Chrysler before. New to me.

I f D

Also cant find where in the book this stock blue spring came from when disassembling. I know was neat the pressure regulator valve/manual spool valve area.?

Man.you know you mopars.. Can you answer the tf2. Shuft kit questions? On my 73 a904 the separator plate. Has no hole R. BUT I WILL HAVING BE A HOT ROD AND A STALL CONVERTER. Staets to drill. If doing so. But on page 4 states dril lube hole. And install white spring. And 3/8 ball. But states...

I cant figure out how to post video from my phone. But i air check low band . perfect. Air check kick down. Works but can hear aur near cltch housing. And air chexk rear clutch. Applies can hear air. And front clutch applies but weak and can hear air in clutch housings were they fo together...