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i know you can get them online. i found them when i was searching for sum but cant remember where. but in the search for cost to get someone to install them i decided against it. was quoted between 7 and 900 bucks. it seems it would be cheaper to drop in another rear end.

Thanks for all of the help! It is greatly appreciated! I couldn't find this information anywhere!

i've done some searching and can't find exactly how to do this. Can someone explain how the procedure is done? I see what you adjust it with but don't know how to turn it. Is it something you tap around with a hammer and screwdriver or what? Also...do I need the foam seals where the axles bolt...

thanks for all the help. gonna be next week before i can install.

the only gear ratio close to my 3.55 was 3.23. it came out of a 68 fury. still a 721 case and thats what i had. for 84 bucks i think i did alright. how much will the 3.23 gears change my running from the 3.55. thanks again for all the help. still confused on the end play adj but will figure it...

Pic of the rear end :wack:

will do/ i spun up some gravel and it started whining. roared on decell and locked tires. left side still turns right side locked. someone told me the axle splines can have diff counts is this correct> guess ill pull one before i go and count my splines. thanks again all will update as i get it...

thanks so much guys. my truck is a 70 the junk yard has a 68, 73 and 77. will any of these work and is there any other makes to look for.

ok thanks for all the info. if i dont find one with the same yoke size is there a way around that? and also will be putting in new axle seals and bearings while apart. cant find any pics on what this adjuster looks like so if anyone can post one it would be great. thanks again

great thanks. when you say on the side of the chunk is it on the outside? gonna go the the junk yard in the morn and see what they have. will take the yoke with me for comparison. if i was to luck up and find a sure grip will that also fit my housing? just running a stock 318 with 3speed manual.

thanks. it does come outta the front and the bacl of the center housing is sealed. i count 10 bolts around the center section. is there a particular rear i need to get the parts from. the local junk yard has a 77 73 and 68.

the rear end on my 70 d100 locked up today then threw the drive shaft. the rear is completly locked. im hoping to just get a near center chunk and replace it. i need to know how to identify the rear i have and any info on how to change the center would be great. this is my daily driver so ill...

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does anyone know if i can use my 3 speed bellhousing with the 4speed trans?

nah i wish i could get it. its at a pull a part and they say they have to cut it into 3 peices before they can sell whole. they also have a 66 thats rotten as heck but other than the driver door bottom being rusted its pretty soid.

i have a 70 d100 currently a 318 with 3 speed manual in floor. found a 68 d100 with a factory 4 speed. my question is does anyone know if the 68 would be a granny gear with 3 speed? if not i would like to change it for my 3 speed. truck is currently sitting on the ground and couldnt get to it to...

nice lol

The adapter bolts to the side of the existing throttle where your throttle cable and rod are attached to now. Ignore the bolt in my kick down rod I had to use a 2bbl linkage for my 4 bbl and it was too short.

on summitts site its part isThrottle Lever Adapter, Performer Series, Mopar, Each Part Number: EDL-1481 $8.95

not sure if the thunder series is the same as the performer but the one i got looks the same but its brass colored. summit has them also for the same price. you put the rod that the throttle cable and the kick down rod attache to in the outside bottom hole and the throttle cable will hook up to...

not having the rod getting pushed back is the early shiftin issue. that somehow controls the pump pressure i THINK. if you can hook that rod up up above the pivot point and get a spring that will reach from where the rod attaches at the back of the engine and pulls it foward to the front of the...

and def need the spring to pull the kick down rod foward . i did mine like yours not knowing and it wouldn shift past 2nd.

looks to me like the kick down is being pulled instead of pushed during acceleration. the adapter places the kickdown above the pivot point so when you give it throttle it pushes the lever back.

its the chrystler throttle adapter. cant remember the part number but it just bolts on the side of the linkage using the existing holes where you have you cable and kickdown attached. very simple. auto zone where im at keeps them in stock for 15 buck.

the 3spd manual in my d100 started whining after i fixed the rear main. pushing the clutch in would stop the noise and after a 100 miles it was constant with screeching also. pulled the trans the release bearing looked good as well as the bushing in the flywheel but the imput shaft was kinda...

safe to assume they dont warranty their trans?

i had my 904 rebuilt at ammco in winston salem nc. they have a guy who is supposed to be great with torqflights. new case torque converter and transgo shift kit. shifts firm but not hard. almost two years with normal driving and occasional beating with a mostly stock 318 and not a prob of any kind.

i have a rebuilt 727 with a transgo tf2 shift kit. i was just wondering under normal driving conditions at what speeds should it shift. and how much pedal effort should it take to get it to kick down it seems like you have to floor it at 50 to get it to kickdown on a hill. is this norm or in...

thanks all havent been able to try yet maybe soon though doesnt sound to promising does it?

anyone else tried this? all input apreciated