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i am trying to locate AMERICAN made switches .. i heard Dan slant six can get them .. i emailed him with response .. any suggestions ? Thanks

i understand that .. but where exactly did you drill .. i have a 4 speed car

Any photos showing where you ran your harness for gauges in bulk head.. where did you drill if any ?

BS.from powermaster .. i had powermaster send me the Mitsubishi style / 1 wire with internal regulator and it was bottoming out on cyl head ... i had the GM style and it also did not fit .. either way i would have to shim triangular mounting bracket with either unit ...

All they said was run a 4-6 gauge wire from alternator to starter relay ...

does anybody run one of these ... looking to run a 165 amp output ... was it direct bolt on ? Thanks for your input

I have run one for a couple of years ... ONLY issue is that i needed to upgrade my voltage regulator to NAPA brand ...

Snake that would be my only concern ... those 194's put out some heat ...

Is the lenses made to handle 194 heat .. i am assuming you will install on park lamp cir ?

I run all in 1 Pertronix dist ... so far so good

Parasitic draw on these OLD cars should be near 0 amps .... PERIOD .... test light OLD school ... get yourself an updated ammeter with pickup that you can clip to negative cable ... this will tell the whole story ...

I ran into the same concern when installing Pertronix 3.. i also had to relocate #1 on dist cap .... and as long as firiing order is correct ... works like a charm ... NOTE :...The only issue i found after installing the Pertronix... i kept on burning out CHEAP elec regulators... would last one...

The black ones did not last on my vehicle... eventually the vehicle started to overcharge .. i ended up buying the NAPA one with stud on front .. NO More issues .

Thats the one you need ... eitiher of the 2 last ones !

ALSO .. 7 mm wires will not last ,, must upgrade to minimum 8mm

I have the same system in my 69 dart .. and i kept on going through voltage regulators .... i ended up buying EI regulator for 20 dollars ... BUT they would not last... then i got the info from here to buy the better one from NAPA ... i think it cost me like 60-70 dollars and never had an issue...

i agree with 69mopee

67Dart all good info.... i am sure with all this good info... will help... BUT did he say what type of vehicle yet ?

HOW much later model are you talking ??? You cannot isolate battery drain with test light on later model cars ..... Open all doors and lids and manually latch doors and lids so you can access fuse panels ...Turn key OFF and wait 20 minutes ,, now Set ammeter to highest scale ... now install...

Cudavert did you call there techline? Did you eliminate the resistor?

I bought Pertronix 3 all in one and love it ...

If car sits for 2 weeks that is a long time for a battery to sit ... especially if this is a weekend cruiser .... with short weekend drives ... make sure that aftermarket add ons are supplied 15 power where recommended and not 30 power .... if the old school method of test light is no...

Thank you ... that is what i was looking for ... NAPA Vr1001 ... which i thought was same quality regulator i was installing on my car ... but after researching the net... the "VR101" i installed is made by WELLS .. several people are saying that this product fails repeatedly ... i just call...

I asked for suggestions .. and now i am getting smart remarks ... FIRST of all .. parts that i have replaced i did not shot gun other than CHINA regulators .... ALL other components were for restoration purposes .. I know how to check volts/ohms/current draws... if i didn't ... i wouldn't be...

COMPLETELY RESTORED OVERHAULED by a company that has been in business for as long as i have known ... I will make necessary measurements again and post this weekend ... WHY Pertronix... because it seems like it all started shortly after ...

I am installing the elec board style VR101 ( silver box ) , which allows me to take cover off and install the original black cover ... NEW alt, NEW battery , New engine harness , New eng to block grd ... I made all necessary measurements prior ... gauge reads OK ... COULD THIS BE the PERTRONIX...

Another voltage regulator ... i ran a dedicated grd from VR case to bulk head ( non painted surface ) and will monitor ... Alt was completely overhauled awhile back by a specialty shop ... DOUBT there is an issue ...

Well i have tried making single field work on my 69 Swinger ... 3rd cir board voltage regulator needed .... lasts about 3 weeks and then max charge .. New alt , new regulators , new harness ... no success ... Seems that Pertronix could be culprit ... Any ideas prior to converting ?

Are you sure you need all 4 wss circuits ... it may just need 1 vehicle speed input from any speed sensor ... some of the newer vehicles i worked on ... typically ecm gets it from canbus ... buffered from abs module ... which TYPICALLY "1" front wss generates signal . OR from trans module...