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Not too sure what holes your talking about. The three closest to the headers should be no problem. The two closest to the intake have extra meat on the bottom that are visible in the intake port. If you drill and tapp these to a larger size for the heli coil you might break threw then you need...

My old ones were 69.4-71.2 I have some flow numbers if you need them.

What coatings...inside the block(valley area), rods, cranks, pistons? The coatings for the rods and cranks are expensive plus the cost of shipping the part back and forth. There is not much to gain unless you spin past 7000rpm. The lifter valley and such serves two purposes as far as I...

Cylinders 1,3,5 and 7 the major is the side of the cylinder wall closest to the lifter valley area and the minor is toward the outside of the block. Cylinders 2,4,6 ad 8 the major is toward the outside of the bock and minor is towards the lifter valley. Another place to sonic check is the front...

I've always heard and used the .200 min major and 1.50 min. minor. I know some go thinner then that but in the end its your money.

The info will be on the sheet you get with your rings. I would gap exactly what it says unless your running KB but your not so no worries.

Well since you had it rebuilt my guess is you had it bored and now that you have thinner cylinder walls all that heat is building up in your coolant and would cause the temps to be high...............just joking but I had to throw it out there. My guess would be improper tune...too much/little...

I came up with the same thing as you did. Great looking heads...love those ports. Any chance you flowed those yet?

You just torque them to whatever your bolt manufacture recommends with the corresponding lube. I ran almost all ARP through my motor and go to them for the torque number. OEM is 95 for the heads and 45 for the intake. But it sounds like your not working with OEM bolts anymore.

I see what you are trying to do but it is going to cost you some money in machine work to turn the crank down that much. Also those cranks have been know to have the oil holes move outward too much when turned down to 318 mains. Your thinking that a 318 will rev faster then a 360 is not really...

I use snap ring pliers. It works really well and has never failed me. Just put them down all the way into the slot squeeze, rotate and pull up. With a short pair you can just use a small hook pick to pull it up high enough to get the snap ring pliers on it.

Oops I think its XR not sure. It's a one man operation last I heard. He called a few places looking for investors and dealers and as far as I know Shady Dell is one of them. They are suppose to be coming out soon in iron or aluminium. It has many different options including tappet angle, full...

Well I'll play the advocate. R3 blocks are very very rare and expensive. If I was going with one I would get a siamese bore that way you could freshen it up many many many times. Also just because you have an R3 doesn't mean they will handle anything you throw at them. They are castings just the...

I think there is a spec they go by on sizing it but it wouldn't hurt to take it there.

I knocked out the dist. bushing with a small socket from underneath. The new one goes right back in but you have to size it to the shaft once it's in. My machinist charged me 5 bucks to size it. The other plug is the diverter plug. I use an old pushrod and a long 1/4inch drive extension put down...

I took mine gauge off awhile back because I just have too many gauges to begin with. I have pretty high compression ratio and the gauge help me find the right power valve. There was a station that had bad gas and I didn't know it and all of a sudden my motor started pinging under light...

Yes Ryan at Shady Dell with hook you up. He is incredible at small block mopar heads. I was just curious about the head plugs because I know the new versions with the blue end plugs are alot better castings then the old ones. As for valve train I like the jesels I run but had thought alot...

You don't bolt the torque converter to the flex plate for balancing. The weights are just welded on using a simple pattern paper. If you have the extra coin just buy a B&M flex plate for an external balanced 340 and be done with it. Then later on you can swap converters without worrying about...

If you can post some pics. Those are great heads and killer when ported right. Post some flow numbers if you are having them flowed. What valves are you going to run? Also what are your plans for the valvetrain? Are you going to be using a 48 block? Last one are those the newer heads with the...

I only see a W2 rectangle port(P5249194) in a dual plane. It's a cast iron piece and rpm range from idle to 5300. I think a dual plane with a W5 head would be a moot point unless your running a class and have no choice.

I agree. I've only seen them listed as 59. I have heard of people using them on 48 blocks... they just got out the die grinder and made room.

I have tti's now and I plain just hate headers but love the power and sound. Mine are almost two years old and already welds have broke and are rusting out pretty badly by the collector...oh and they are coated. If it's a race car only then go with what makes the most power but for me I'm going...

Just a simple rubber cap with a hose clamp. Not too sure where you can get them at but I'm sure the mail in places have them.

You guys could eat off your motors...very very nice. Here's mine not too close so you can't see all the dirt.

Yes both of those plugs should be in but they are out in the pic because I was drilling some passages out. If those two plugs were not in before you fired up the motor you would have zero oil pressure and one heck of a mess on your hands when you fire it up.

Yes the diverter plug would only not let the oil filter do its job but the scallops on the cam thrust plate and no gallery plugs especially on the driver side gallery would really tax the number one main journal since that's where the driver side oil passage gets all of it's oil. Just my two cents.

The plug he was referring to was the diverter plug that goes inside one of the oil passages as show in the pic by the red circle. The rest of the plugs on the pic are just end plugs. I was doing some oil mods on that block. The lines showed where I drilled the oil passages out to 1/2inch with a...

Opps here is the pic

The small circle shows where that plug goes. Just for reference.

Yes they will have studs in them before I pour the block filler. From what I know the OEM bolts are suppose to locate the caps better. I've heard of some people havig to drill the cap holes out to a hair larger size to make the caps fit right(with studs) but that was suppose to only happen if...