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Here ya go..and the price is right! [FOR SALE] - New In Box TCI Shifter

The rod to the column is the same. Are you using a 727 or 904?

No, never. ONLY BBP pre-73 A Body were the 68 Hemi SS cars..and those were B Body rears

There are only two possible choices (with the offset crank pattern you have) A 727 diameter, and a 904 diameter. I can get a 904 sized one in the mail to you tomorrow

Ok, why won't the converter work?

That's a 727 flex plate. I have the one you need. $35 shipped. PM me if you want it.

You would need to find a 1964 valve body to make the internal filter setup work. The external filter is an all around better thing, though

53.5 plus or minus .250

I've got a couple of sets of NOS Slant/904 lines. $60 plus shipping.

Nope

7.25s are NOT C clip rears...and welding one up will increase its strength tremendously. Moderate weight car...less than 3500 wet, less than 300 horsepower and auto trans, it should last a good, long time.

Make sure the shaft you are using is for the Dodge, and not from a Plymouth. There is a two inch difference, and the shorter Plymouth shaft will not fully seat into the transmissions rear flange. It'll vibrate like crazy

The tunnel is the part of the floorpan that covers the transmission. 63-66 tunnels are barely big enough for the 904. Later, 67-up ones are designed to clear the 727. It's an easy graft and makes a huge difference

I have late trans tunnels for $60 plus shipping.

Early Dart had the engine two inches farther out

Wouldn't bolting on an adjustable pinion snubber be a little easier?

Not interchangeable. The housing ends on your BBP are the same as an 8.25

Funny this thread popped up today. Over the last month or so, I have been stockpiling 7.25 rears and parts with the intent of deliberately blowing them up to find the common failure points and hopefully producing some upgrade bits to give the little suckers a chance. Just last night, I was...

Is the yoke from a 1966 car? That's the only one that would give any length issues

All 66-up A Body 903 and A230s are the same length, same spline Either your mechanic is trying to fit a B Body trans in there, or he's making stuff up to jack your bill.

You ran it low on lube and the pinion bearing is toast

Welding the diff on a street car is all about it's intended use. For a daily, or a cruiser..or anything that might see rain...VERY VERY bad idea!!! Saturday night special? Go for it

At least half the welded sets end up cracking between the spiders, giving a tiny bit of play, which is probably a good thing. Filling in just the one tooth on each gear would seem like something that would put a lot of stress on the cross pin as they try to ride up over the lump. That said...

Zero con's. I've been welding spiders since the 70s..never had a problem directly related to it. As a side note, about ten years ago, I bought a truck load of parts that had come from Petty Enterprises...it was a bunch of their Short and Dirt track stuff. Came with half a dozen chunks..every...

Your housing could be bent into a U and it still wouldn't cause wheel wobble. New or not, that axle shaft is out

Depending on how handy you are with a welder, I would drill the holes open until you find solid metal, and then just stitch them closed. Simplest repair possible

Weld up the spiders BEFORE they break! "Lincoln Locker" last you long long time

That Fireball cam is an old school grind that requires a converter in the 3000 rpm range. What I have found after messing with a few of them over the years, is that early ones are indexed from the factory to be split overlap when dot to dot. Some, and I assume them to be later versions, are...

You can use a heater hose cap over the housing. Done it a hundred times

The Christine Car Club • View topic - Different Driveshaft lengths